Hi Alice: 

I think it depends a little on what kind of lace she made, what she made it of, 
and how it reacts when its off the pins. Compare, for example, a densely-woven 
piece with plenty of cloth stitch and a heavier thread, to some much more 
flimsy piece of point ground made with fine cotton.

In the antique pieces I have seen, the lace is generally just tacked at the 
seams if support is needed. Since this lace will be supported by the lining, it 
is acting more as an interlining than a true lining, which hangs free of the 
fabric. I’m just making this point because if you read the directions for 
linings in a sewing book, they will suggest the lining be made a trifle bigger 
than the main piece, so the lining does not bind, but those instructions should 
be ignored here.

If I were your friend, I would select a fabric for the lining, and make the 
jacket to fit (using the pricking, but I would add seam allowances). After the 
lining-fabric jacket is complete, and fits and I’m happy with it, I would 
position the lace on the jacket and then tack it down. If the pieces do not 
quite meet in some places, the lace will probably give a little. If the gap is 
too much, she could add in some plaits or whatever looks good, to fill in any 
little spaces.

Hope this helps.

Adele
West Vancouver, BC (west coast of Canada)
where it is sunny this morning, but frosty


> My friend is just finishing the lace for a jacket.  She's trying to figure
> out the best way to line it when it's done.  The lace sections do contract a
> bit when the lace is off the pins so the pricking is a bit larger than the
> finished lace.
> Should she use the lace or the pricking for her lining pattern?  If she
> traces the actual lace, she will need to add seam/hem allowance.  Perhaps the
> shrinkage of the lace would mean the pricking is large enough for seams/hems,
> thus eliminating the need to trace the lace.
> 
> She's planning to use flat feld seams so there's no raw edges.  And she
> expects to hand baste the lining to the lace along the seams and around the
> edges.  The lace does have some large-ish spaces so she thinks a lining is
> necessary.

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