Hello Spiders All On 18 May 2008, at 13:50, lace-digest wrote:
When Brenda et al wrote to say that the lace looked like Irish Crochet I was relieved.... I thought it was, but I'm usually 'not quite right' so thought this time I'd not put my ten pennorth in!!
Looks like Irish crochet to me. It's a form of crochet with lots of padding and raised work done to imitate Venetian Gros Point needle lace. Brenda
As regards variegated thread, I've found the DMC 80 are good as well as the Valdani. Where can I get hold of Oliver Twists? The mat I said about was using the DMC... as the workers never moved away from each other I made sure that they 'matched' in colour!, well almost anyway! Where they were slightly out the overall effect was good anyway.
And THANKS for calling my lace a 'fine example' Now I am 'chuffed'!! Nice to know something has worked!!
Both the length of color change and the range of colors are important for making variegated-thread lace. I find the best variegated is a range of shades of the same color, preferably not going all the way to white. As someone said, Oliver Twists is a good one. But some perle cottons and tatting threads can work well. Using variegated in pairs causes the colors to change differently for each bobbin (you're going "backwards" on one bobbin, relative to the color sequence of the other bobbin). This works okay for passives in a dense (thin thread) cloth stitch area--it creates heathered tones as all the colors mix together. Sue Duckles shows a fine example of using variegated passives in a fan. Another way to go is with a single pair, not wound together. Then you can match the variegation of the two threads and use this as the worker. With narrow cloth stitch trails or diamonds, coupled with a slowly-changing thread, you get nice gradation of color.
Sue D in East Yorkshire - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
