I don't think you will have enough torque with the 1:1 ratio on the A axis. On the Joe's Hybrid CNC I built with Burney we used a 1200 oz/inch motor with a 3:1 ratio. On the Legacy that we CNCed we used a 620 oz/inch with a 3:1 ratio and it wasn't enough.
Rich Goldner Indexer Wizards http://WizardsbyRich.yolasite.com <http://wizardsbyrich.yolasite.com/> From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dustin Yoder Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 6:36 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: RE: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC Tim, yes, direct drive, is that a problem? I noticed others going with a belt and pulley system. Is there a reason for that? Curt, each axis is attached by a spider shaft coupling, the x, y and z are 5/8" and the spindle (A) is 3/4". I reversed the X axis leadscrew so that I could attach the coupling without interference from the square end that the handle attaches to. Other than that, the couplers just slide on and lock with an allen screw. Photo 1: X-axis coupled to stepper. Photo 2: Opposite end of X-axis. Photo 3: Spindle. _____ To: legacy-ornamental-mills+dig...@googlegroups.com From: legacy-ornamental-mills+nore...@googlegroups.com Subject: Digest for legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com - 11 Messages in 4 Topics Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 06:03:26 +0000 Today's Topic Summary Group: http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/topics * Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC <> [2 Updates] * How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? <> [3 Updates] * 20% Sale on Legacy CNC <> [3 Updates] * Slop in my 900 <> [3 Updates] Topic: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC <http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/t/4aba35b8f169abd7> Dustin Yoder <dustinyo...@hotmail.com> Jul 07 09:24PM -0400 ^ <> I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was not eliminated, it was reduced. Do you think I could improve my result if I add another rear carriage slider and put them on each side of the carriage rather than having one in the middle like I have now? "Tim Krause" <artmarb...@comcast.net> Jul 07 08:17PM -0700 ^ <> I think I would not increase the friction on the opposite side of the lead screw. Leave that to float. If the round bushings on the rails are not touching the top and bottom of the groove, I'd be willing to bet they have divots in them. You might want to rotate them to a new spot fresh spot. This is the plain round barrel type, not the top hat ones. -Tim ----- Original Message ----- From: Dustin Yoder To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 6:24 PM Subject: Build log of sorts for a 1200 upgrade to CNC I started my carriage upgrade today. I followed the adjustable gib strip topic here on the group to make a few adjustments to the carriage. After the changes, the carriage fit is a bit tighter and a bit harder to push along the rails. The slider block I added to the back side of the carriage is just a touch thick and it brought the round bumpers that run in the back rail to the top of the channel--which is why I think it's a bit harder to push. So, did I actually accomplish anything? I think I did. I put the Z-axis back on and locked down the X split nut and ran it up and down the rails a bit. Turning the X leadscrew is really really smooth now. I've also noticed that I can't detect any backlash in the split nut when I change directions. I'm not saying that there isn't any there, but I am saying that I can't see it, which is a bit better than it was. Before the upgrade, I had noticeable racking in the carriage from the front rail to the back. While this was not eliminated, it was reduced. Do you think I could improve my result if I add another rear carriage slider and put them on each side of the carriage rather than having one in the middle like I have now? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. Topic: How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? <http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/t/1bb722e192fc9426> Chainlink <dustinyo...@hotmail.com> Jul 07 06:32PM -0700 ^ <> I tried to reply to my build thread today and I copied the topic name into the subject line, but my post showed up under a new topic rather than a reply to the existing topic and my inline photos didn't show up. What am I doing wrong? Thanks :) "curt george" <curtgeo...@wowway.com> Jul 07 10:24PM -0400 ^ <> Hello Think of this group As an Google based E-mail system. More or less. Going to the web page is good for looking up information, but if you want to post pictures it has to be done form the E-mail status. If you use this group as an E-mail account, I believe you will have much less problems. Good luck. Looking forward to reading some for your replys latter. Have a good night. C.A.G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chainlink" <dustinyo...@hotmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 9:32 PM Subject: How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? "Tim Krause" <artmarb...@comcast.net> Jul 07 08:14PM -0700 ^ <> Handled offline. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chainlink" <dustinyo...@hotmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 6:32 PM Subject: How to you properly reply to your topic from hotmail client? > Thanks :) > -- > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. > To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. > To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. > For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. Topic: 20% Sale on Legacy CNC <http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/t/677bb4fb127e88a7> begatbrown <darylmichaelsc...@gmail.com> Jul 07 07:24AM -0700 ^ <> If one has the cash or a growing business, this is a good time to look at the CNCs from Legacy because they have a 20% sale for a short period. I have both an model 900 ornamental mill and an Arty 58. The 900 is for the hobbiest in me and the Arty is an attempt at a hustle. As I try to design parts to sell, I often try out things on the 900 to see if they make sense. And this is where I have the most fun. Yet, once you have the design and can translate it to the CNC, the speed and accuracy is so much better. I hope the sale comes back after I've succeeded in designing parts and getting sales. I'd buy one the the artisans that would allow me to make 8'x11inch columns. With the prices I've seen columns go for, I think it would pay for itself fairly quickly--even if you sale them at a discount. Begat "curt george" <curtgeo...@wowway.com> Jul 07 01:02PM -0400 ^ <> I wouldn't fret. I would bet that you will see something like it again, most likely around labor day. (just a guess no inside info here.) ;-) so save your pennies and hopefully... When I worked in the machine shop it took days to set up and test run our NC mills and lathes,the programming was slow work. but once set up, No human could keep up with them. I would bet the CNC would be much the same. I've got the CNC itch my self, but at this time I just cant scratch it. Someday!?. We will see. C.A.G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "begatbrown" <darylmichaelsc...@gmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 10:24 AM Subject: 20% Sale on Legacy CNC begatbrown <darylmichaelsc...@gmail.com> Jul 07 06:37PM -0700 ^ <> Hello Curt, You're probably right about the sale coming back. The economy is hard and any purchase of that size is a major investment. I had better show a lot of revenue growth to convince my live in business partner! Pennies won't do! Begat Topic: Slop in my 900 <http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills/t/82d499312d525e0f> gscott40 <gdscot...@gmail.com> Jul 07 02:24PM -0700 ^ <> Well here is a newby asking a question or two. I am trying to make the hollow spiral candle stick that Legacy has on their web site and youtube. Let's see if I can ask my questions so that you understand me. I intend to turn the spiral on my 900 and take it to my lathe, clean it up, turn the 1/2" dowels. Then turn the cup and the base on the lathe. I suspect that will be a bit faster. First, the spirals have a small peak to them...his does also. I assume this is the cutter being just slightly deep. I raised it and got a small flat area. But I noticed some of you guys have managed to remove it (not have that). Is that from fooling with the height of the cutter or simply sanding? I noticed that there is slop in the gear as I try to set stops. I set the carriage at a stop (10 1/2 inches for example) and when I return it will be off 1/16" or so. Is the machine is just sloppy or can this be dealt with in some way I'm not seeing? When he cuts the hollow spiral in the video he, of course, doesn't go full depth but make several passes. He starts at the tail stock and drives to the head stock, raises the router and returns to the tail stock and takes another pass. Why not lower the router when he reaches the head stock and make the second cut back to the tail stock. Any other helpful comments would be appreciated. I did one spiral in some maple ambrosa and it was pretty good for the first time but the maple was to wet and split slightly. I'm doing one from dry red oak that if have ( stair part ). Seems to be working OK but, of course I want it to be perfect. Yeah right. I also have some questions about rope turnings vs barley twists but I'll save those until later. Thanks in advance. George "curt george" <curtgeo...@wowway.com> Jul 07 08:40PM -0400 ^ <> Hello George. First of,Welcome to the group. your questions are all stated pretty well as far as I see them. First off. Much of the slop is realy called back lash. all gears have it. so its something the you will need to work around/with in your projects. the easiest way to limit the amount of BL. is to cut in one direction only.(it doesn't matter what direction .) another way is to over run your 0 mark by a turn or two of the screw when rewinding your drive screw, and then move forward back to the mark.Then start cutting from there. I second the sanding on the Lathe. I do that when all possible. You will find it a good bit of help if you make all your lathe and legacy equipment the same. (chucks, drive spirs...) I went out and bought a second indexing hub connector for the lathe. the idea is the quicker you can go form one machine back to the other the better you will be for better productivity. The hollow spiral is not all that hard to do. but just take it slow, light cuts. and even then sometimes the wood just will not work. You will find Maple and other dense woods will work better for some jobs that others. try to watch out for wild grain woods and knots for this kind of job. Also supporting the wood with steady rest, or...? using scrap wood and painters tape,to fill the voids in the wood to limit vibration while cutting dose also help. I highly recommend to go to the wood shed and practice of fire wood or any kind of scrap wood at first. In my shop I have a few rounded scraps of wood that I use just for test pieces, when trying something new. why rune a good piece of wood, when the free stuff is easer to replace? ;-) Also I've found some of the best looking woods in the weirdest places. You never will know if you have a diamond in the rough, until you start cutting it. There is not such thing as a dumb question, except the one that you did not ask. I find most of the time others have or had the same problem in there past or future. I personally have learned a lot for many of the people with in this group. That why we are all here! to learn and share, so we all can be best that we can be. Have a great night. C.A.G. ----- Original Message ----- From: "gscott40" <gdscot...@gmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Thursday, July 07, 2011 5:24 PM Subject: Slop in my 900 "Bill Bulkeley" <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> Jul 08 10:46AM +1000 ^ <> Welcome I'm no great expert but this is my opinion and what I do I set the depth carefully and sand most of my work on the wood lathe when finished. bits I cant reach I use a sanding mop on, I have one mounted on a temporary saddle and I push or pull it along with the machines saddle so I can follow the spiral as it sands. as for removing the bit and going back the start for each cut is because the slop in the gears you mentioned and in the machine in general will make it cut differently winding back a bad thing on a finishing cut. after saying that some times when I'M roughing out a spiral I travel in both directions but when I'M close its one way only. it is a good idea too when doing hollow spirals to always use the thin stock support or something similar I find it helps with vibration and at worst catastrophic failure. the legacy stops are not very good most of use make alternatives I know Tim has some quite good ones he makes and sells, personally I use the stop as more of a guide and when close stop to a line I draw on the rails or a certain spot on the crank I hope this helps I'M sure others will cover any thing I might have forgotten or they do different Bill ----- Original Message ----- From: "gscott40" <gdscot...@gmail.com> To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com> Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 7:24 AM Subject: Slop in my 900 -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. 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