​Hi Curt
If you look at a Trend T-11 Router it uses this kind of collet arrangement. 
Basically you undo the Collet Nut and remove the collet and fit a different 
size of collet. Now you would use 1/4" & 1/2" cutters predominately but over 
here you find 1/4" & 1/2" cutters along with 8 mm, 10 mm and 12 mm so this over 
comes the problem.

I remember back, probably 10 or 12 years, someone coming up to me at a show 
wanting a 12mm collet solution as he had bought a set of cutters cheap under 
the impression they were 1/2" which is 12.7 mm. Being 12mm cutters would not 
lock up. If you view this video and go to about 4 mins 20 secs you will see the 
collet in all its glory.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6pGabz5dR0

Excellent router and I have had a couple but when you sell Festool you have to 
use Festool routers so my Trend units got sold.
 
Cheers
Roger



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​


From: CURTIS GEORGE
Received: 18/06/2017 15:06:38 +01:00
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Hello Richard
do you have a picture of this ER 20 system. 
I for one have used collet systems on steel mills, but they were part of the 
machine, how do you fit that with a router? or do you just use the collet from 
a mill and then use a motor to drive it???

They say a picture is worth 1000 words, in this case, please post a lot of 
pictures.
 I need help understanding what you are doing. ;-)

C.A.G.





From: "Richard Ellis" <rchrd.ell...@gmail.com>
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2017 3:41:19 AM
Subject: Re: Routers


Tom
 I am sorry that I did not answer your question about the ER 20 system . They 
are mainly used in the metal work trade. However They can be used for wood work.
I use them with milling cutters, and the drawback with them is that they are 
parallel shank to cutter.
This of course means that a change of cutter size means that one has to also 
change the collet 
I have never used a normal router cutter larger than 3/4" and 1/2" shank in the 
ER20
The milling cutters from the far east are so cheap and I just use them for 
planing cuts or grooving.
I know nothing Re: Diamond saws but am learning something new every time I go 
back to messages on this site, that are years old.
Yesterday using my Revo I used a 1/2" milling cutter to plane a spindle 30 
inches long by 1 1/4"Dia
Turned both handles at the same speed ----- it looked like the rats had been at 
it----------- must get a motor drive to the spindle, like I have on the Old 
Woodchuck, that leaves a perfect finish on spindles using the same 1/2" milling 
cutter.
Further more I do not need the exercise by the turning of handles !!!!!????
Regards
Richard

On Saturday, June 10, 2017 at 4:07:09 PM UTC+1, Tom Dotta wrote:
Hi Richard & Curtis

Two things I'd like to hear more about. ER20 system and diamond hole saws for 
use on a router??

Cheers   Tom D

On Sat, Jun 10, 2017 at 7:43 AM, CURTIS GEORGE <curtg...@wowway.com 
[JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]> wrote:

Hello and Good morning Everyone.
I have the Xtreme Xtension chuck on my router, I do like it, But having said 
that have been looking at the muscle chuck for a while and DO plan to buy one.
Here is there web site. http://www.musclechuck.com/ 
[http://www.musclechuck.com/]   I have switched form my PC to a Craftsman 
router for my Legacy, I was told that the Bosh (#4) chuck would work for me, so 
I plan to buy one soon.
I agree with Richard using the old router col let type of chucks are a Pain! 

As far as Router bits go. Magnate is a very good company, but I use what ever I 
can get my hands on, metal working end mills (both carbide and H,S,S.) are also 
part of my arsenal of tools that I use with my Legacy. (NOTE) Two flute end 
mills work the best on wood, ones made to cut Alum. are what I look for the 
most.  The end mills that have more flutes tend to bog up with wood chips, so 
stay clear of those for the main stay, But end mills are cheaper to buy and 
higher quality for the most part. but the section of profiles is limited 
compared with router bits.    
but for the small/detail jobs, I use what ever I can find, HSS (cheep) bits can 
do well for small jobs, so keep your eyes open, you just may find something 
that works for you even if its not made to work with a router...  
One more example are my diamond hole saws, They work very well for detail work, 
they are much safer to use then an Fly cutter would be on a router. but again 
(I must stress ) they are ONLY for detail work,  

Gota run now.
Have a good weekend everyone.
C.A.G.

From: "Bawdsey64" <rhp...@gmail.com [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]>
To: "Bill Bulkeley" <bulk...@mmnet.com.au [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]>, "Mike Pung" 
<legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]>
Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2017 10:02:13 AM
Subject: RE: Routers


​A word of warning DO NOT PUT AN XTREME XTENSION IN A MUSCLE CHUCK, that can be 
lethal and they are not meant to be used together.

Of the two products I prefer the Xtreme Xtension but that is because Bob at 
Router Technologies built it originally for me after the guy at Muscle Chuck or 
what ever his company was called at that time would only build his product for 
Porter Cable! Bob even sent him his design for the Xtreme Xtension but he did 
not want to know so Bob went ahead and built it.

If you are in the UK or Europe then both products are available from 
www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk [http://www.woodworkersworkshop.co.uk] and by the 
way I am not involved with that company in any way these days.
Cheers
Roger



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​



From: Bill Bulkeley
Received: 10/06/2017 14:52:10 +01:00
To: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]
I use nothing but triton routers on my mills, router table and free hand I love 
them.
They are all fitted either with the quick change musclechuck or the xtream 
xtension depending on the reach I need.
Rather than change chucks on one router I change the whole router for another, 
I have several fitted with different quick change chucks.
The triton routers are the only routers here that have fast removal and replace 
mounting from machine to machine, one of the reasons i like them so much.
loosen 2 wing nut like screws slide a little and it’s off  done. I can change 
routers in about 10 seconds.
When I have it on the legacy I have  one or both of the routers plastic shields 
removed so I can get easily to the router bit and also the legacy T ball hex 
key fits all the quick change chucks so changing bits is easy and all the 
cutting takes place lower down so the shields don’t do much anyway in this case.
When I started I bought this set first 
https://www.magnate.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RBPROFESSIONAL 
[https://www.magnate.net/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RBPROFESSIONAL]
Then kept adding and adding bits mostly from magnate others from ebay or were 
ever i saw bits i think i could use now i have that many it’s ridiculous I was 
a bit a holic for a while J
 
Bill
 
 
 
From: legacy-orna...@googlegroups.com [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED] 
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [JAVASCRIPT-BLOCKED]] On 
Behalf Of Richard Ellis
Sent: Saturday, 10 June 2017 4:40 PM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Routers
 
Wondering what sort of routers do most of you use. And did you buy sets of 
cutters or buy them individually ???
I have a Triton TRA 001 on my Woodchuck and a Dewalt 625 E on my Revo.
Bill I always find it a pain to change cutters on the Triton-------- need three 
hands, although it is easy to do in a vertical position in the router table. 
On the Legacy's I usually have something under the cutter to save it from 
falling on the floor. Sometimes I wedge the lock button in with a length of 
wood.
Be nice if the button stayed put. The routers both have the ER 20 collet   
system  They allow me to use milling cutters.
Regards to all ,and lets have more posts, surely someone has a question or two
Richard
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