Hello Everyone. (Its been a crazy week for me. Sorry to be a late comer to
this topic.)
I made my own tap a while back. I used a small section of lead-screw form an
old Legacy. my tap works well. (If you want I can try to chase the threads out?
if so let me know, I am willing to try.)
5/8"-4 acme taps are expensive and not easily found. I know Bill owned one
before the fire. (I don't think it survived the fire?)
My suggestion as far as the New split nut goes. is to Run it on your machine/
acme screw with a clamp on it. in the attempt to break it in. Im sure after a
short time, the plastic will ware in correctly., (like breaking in a new set of
shoes.Sometimes it takes a while.)
I would not throw out the babby with the bath water, (so to speak.) What
Legacy sold you looks to be a good part. as far as the threads go. the locking
knob can be re-drilled and tapped to the 3/8" tap size. (I think it the right
size? take a measurement form the original....)
talk to you all more latter.
C.A.G On Saturday, February 2, 2019, 3:22:11 PM EST, Bill Bulkeley
<bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:
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Fair enough Tim I guess they would have tobe cheaper than legacy’s ones well
if they’re going to be a good price you canput me down for a couple. Remember
for members ordering on some mill modelsthe split nut can be a different shape
Bill
From:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Ziegler
Sent: Sunday, 3 February 2019 6:23AM
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Make a "SplitNut"
Yes they are available from Legacy. I just ordered one from Cindy, andwill be
here sometime this upcoming week.
I responded the Forum as others where interested in getting somemade.
I have a avid young friend that has CNC as well as works for a machineshop and
offered to dig into it.
Kind Regards,
Timothy J. Ziegler
Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
14171 160th Ave.
Foreston MN 56330
320-294-5798 shop
320-630-2243 cell
On Sat, Feb 2, 2019 at 11:04 AM Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:
Ithink delrin is still the best material to make a split nut from and any
metalmachinist worth his salt could make one without going to cnc
Theonly other material I would use if I was not going to use delrin would be
brasslike the split nut in a metal lathe is made from
Butthen you would need a small amount of lubrication on it. but it would
certainlylast a lot longer. But aren’t they still available from legacy?. also
if youkeep a good supply of dyna-glide on your lead screw and split nut and
also onthe rails and make sure your saddle moves freely and easily along the
rails atall times will increase split nut life as well.
Speakingfrom my years in the metal industry as a machinist and as a owner of
legacymills
Bill
From:
legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of Tim Ziegler
Sent: Sunday, 3 February 201912:06 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Make a "SplitNut"
I have a buddy uphere in Minnesota that has a CNC and I shot him an email to
see if thissomething he can create. Hopefully I hear something back from him
thismorning.
kind regards,
Tim of ZWW&S
On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 11:23:26 AM UTC-5, Va Oak wrote:
Hello all,
I am not sure how well a split nut made from HDPE will hold up - but here is
my2-cents' worth:
HDPE (Look on bottom of plastic jugs, bottles, etc for the Recycle symbol
w/the#2) is the only plastic that I know of that we can "re-purpose" athome.
Do an Internet/BING search for this - you'll be amazed.
I find that the plastic Folgers and Maxwell House coffee canisters are
labeled#2 - as are most milk jugs. The two coffee brands yield red and
blueplastic respectively.
My thought is that you embed a matching Acme rod into the mold you melt the
#2plastic in. Once cooled, you should be able to "unscrew" the rod fromthe
plastic billet. You then cut/machine the billet to the exteriormeasurements
you need and then split it down the center line. "Machining" can be done with
your router, bandsaw, etc.
Does anyone have an idea of how well the #2 plastic (HDPE) will hold up? Even
if it wears down after 6 months of use - you will be able to reuse thatworn out
piece, with some added #2 plastic, and melt/mold a new piece. Ifyour mold &
billet is long enough, you can produce a year's-worth in onemold.
If anyone tries this - or something similar, please share pictures and results.
Mac
-----Original Message-----
From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
Sent: Aug 3, 2017 10:00 AM
To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
Subject: Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung
i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem forme on my
recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement ofthe lead
screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways, especially whenusing a drive
motor...think of each cross section of thread as a square(seephoto)...I
measured the cross section of the thread(in a new nut) tobe .140" wide...in the
photo of the worn nut, that same dimension is downto .065...so you could say
the thread went from 1/8" full(new) to1/16"...and sanding the nut down is not
going to improve the function ofthe nut, in my opinion...maybe early on you can
sand the nut to get a bit morelife out of it, but that's it...the key to
solving this problem is finding the5/8-4 acme thread tap...once you have the
tap, to make a new split nut issomewhat simple...and anyone who has that
"hinged" split nut, I wouldswap that out and set up a sliding split nut...much
more problematic to makethat hinged split nut...so, if any member knows where
to get that tap, here oroverseas, please let the group know...I certainly would
like to purchaseone...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from
some acme, threadedrod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent
idea...joe b.
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