Just the split nuts were different or the threaded rods size and count
changed ?

On Sat, Feb 2, 2019 at 2:22 PM Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au> wrote:

>  Fair enough Tim  I guess they would have to be cheaper than legacy’s ones
> well if they’re going to be a good price you can put me down for a  couple.
> Remember for members ordering on some mill models the split nut can be a
> different shape
>
>
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Ziegler
> *Sent:* Sunday, 3 February 2019 6:23 AM
> *To:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: Make a "Split Nut"
>
>
>
> Yes they are available from Legacy. I just ordered one from Cindy, and
> will be here sometime this upcoming week.
>
>
>
> I responded the Forum as others where interested in getting some made.
>
> I have a avid young friend that has CNC as well as works for a machine
> shop and offered to dig into it.
>
>
> Kind Regards,
>
>
>
> Timothy J. Ziegler
>
> Ziegler WoodWork & Specialty
>
> 14171 160th Ave.
>
> Foreston MN 56330
>
>
>
> 320-294-5798 shop
>
> 320-630-2243 cell
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 2, 2019 at 11:04 AM Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
> wrote:
>
> I think delrin is still the best material to make a split nut from and any
> metal machinist worth his salt could make one without going to cnc
>
> The only other material I would use if I was not going to use delrin would
> be brass like the split nut in a metal lathe is made from
>
> But then you would need a small amount of lubrication on it. but it would
> certainly last a lot longer. But aren’t they still available from legacy?.
> also if you keep a good supply of dyna-glide on your lead screw and split
> nut and also on the rails and make sure your saddle moves freely and easily
> along the rails at all times will increase split nut life as well.
>
> Speaking from my years in the metal industry as a machinist and as a owner
> of legacy mills
>
> Bill
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Tim Ziegler
> *Sent:* Sunday, 3 February 2019 12:06 AM
> *To:* Legacy Ornamental Mills
> *Subject:* Re: Make a "Split Nut"
>
>
>
> I have a buddy up here in Minnesota that has a CNC and I shot him an email
> to see if this something he can create. Hopefully I hear something back
> from him this morning.
>
>
>
> kind regards,
>
>
>
> Tim of ZWW&S
>
> On Thursday, August 3, 2017 at 11:23:26 AM UTC-5, Va Oak wrote:
>
> Hello all,
> I am not sure how well a split nut made from HDPE will hold up - but here
> is my 2-cents' worth:
> HDPE (Look on bottom of plastic jugs, bottles, etc for the Recycle symbol
> w/the #2) is the only plastic that I know of that we can "re-purpose" at
> home.
> Do an Internet/BING search for this - you'll be amazed.
>
> I find that the plastic Folgers and Maxwell House coffee canisters are
> labeled #2 - as are most milk jugs.  The two coffee brands yield red and
> blue plastic respectively.
> My thought is that you embed a matching Acme rod into the mold you melt
> the #2 plastic in. Once cooled, you should be able to "unscrew" the rod
> from the plastic billet.  You then cut/machine the billet to the exterior
> measurements you need and then split it down the center line.  "Machining"
> can be done with your router, bandsaw, etc.
>
> Does anyone have an idea of how well the #2 plastic (HDPE) will hold up?
> Even if it wears down after 6 months of use - you will be able to reuse
> that worn out piece, with some added #2 plastic, and melt/mold a new
> piece.  If your mold & billet is long enough, you can produce a
> year's-worth in one mold.
>
> If anyone tries this - or something similar, please share pictures and
> results.
>
> Mac
> ------------------------------
> ------------------------------
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills
> Sent: Aug 3, 2017 10:00 AM
> To: Legacy Ornamental Mills
> Subject: Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung
>
> i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me on my
> recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement of the
> lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways, especially when
> using a drive motor...think of each cross section of thread as a square(see
> photo)...I measured the cross section of the thread(in a new nut) to be
> .140" wide...in the photo of the worn nut, that same dimension is down to
> .065...so you could say the thread went from 1/8" full(new) to 1/16"...and
> sanding the nut down is not going to improve the function of the nut, in my
> opinion...maybe early on you can sand the nut to get a bit more life out of
> it, but that's it...the key to solving this problem is finding the 5/8-4
> acme thread tap...once you have the tap, to make a new split nut is
> somewhat simple...and anyone who has that "hinged" split nut, I would swap
> that out and set up a sliding split nut...much more problematic to make
> that hinged split nut...so, if any member knows where to get that tap, here
> or overseas, please let the group know...I certainly would like to purchase
> one...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from some acme,
> threaded rod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent
> idea...joe b.
>
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