Date: Wed, 05 Jul 2000 01:30:53 PDT
From: "neil barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Coloured Cases, Mouse Covers and Keys - Joint order?]
below...
>From: Paul Bristow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: Libretto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Libretto <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Coloured Cases, Mouse Covers and Keys - Joint order?]
>Date: Tue, 4 Jul 2000 11:30:54 -0700
>
>Date: Tue, 04 Jul 2000 20:24:01 +0200
>From: Paul Bristow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Coloured Cases, Mouse Covers and Keys - Joint order?]
>
>Karen Reynolds wrote:
>
><snip>
>
> > I'm not sure what kind of paint is already on the Libby's; but
> > it is still good to use a primer to cover it up. I don't know if
>
>I took my spare battery and scraped the plastic with my trusty Swiss
>Army Knife - it seems that the plastic is made that colour for our
>Libs. :( This means ANY spray job would suffer from scratches at some
>point. :(
>
Um...extrapolating from CT50s (cos that's all I've had to play with)...they
seem to be made of two different plastics (the battery and the screen lid)
and the magnesium (alloy?) of the main frame.
> > spraying the mouse cover would be good or not. And I would
> > think that taking everything out of the case first would be a
> > good idea, eh??
>
>I would remove the mouse cover, and I think taking everything out of the
>case would be essential.
>Neil, any tips on a bunch of non-experts in removing the insides of
>their librettos for spray painting? I would guess you are THE expert on
>libretto insides by now (except perhaps for David).
<grin> I can get the guts out in ten minutes now....CT50 of course but
others probably similar - 70 at least. Altogther now class, can we say 'this
is at your own risk'? Try and remember where all the screws come from: some
of them have thin heads and there are one or two with different threads.
1) you'll need a '0' posidriv/philips screwdriver and possibly an '00', and
a scalpel or similar knife (modelling knife?)
2) remove battery
3) remove 2 screws on disk cover, remove cover, and slide out disk
4) remove the strip of plastic at the top of the keyboard by lifting from
the right
5) remove screw in middle top of keyboard
6) lift keyboard, remove screw in memory module(if fitted) and remove memory
module
7) remove the two screws on the keyboard straps
8) the keyboard cable connecter has two tiny 'ears' on either side of
it...slide these towards the back of the machine about 1mm. The keyboard
cable will then pull out easily. If this is stiff, you probably didn't pull
the ears far enough.
9) remove the two thin head screws in the middle of the silver plate and
lift the plate away. This is very thin and easy to bend, and sometimes
catches under the case but can be jiggled free.
10) disconnect the screen cable by lifting. Try and grasp the connector
itself - the cable is folded over itself. If you break this cable, you're
stuffed.
11) close display, turn computer over, and remove remaining five long screws
from the back, then turn rightside up again and open display.
12)Theoretically, at this stage you can just lift the display half off. In
practice, you'll have to run a thumbnail around the seam between the two
halves of the body to separate the clips. There's one in the back centre
which will annoy you a little, start from the battery end cheeks.
13) you can now remove the motherboard from the case by lifting. I don't
find it necessary to remove the cmos battery or the DC jack, but watch for
the IR lens (back centre) and the minijack cover (little shiny steel bit)
which wants to fall out.
14) now we have a go at the screen faceplate. Use a sharp knife or similar
to remove the two grey rectangular bits at the bottom left and right.
They're a thin metallic foil with glue on the back and if you're *very*
careful you can re-use them later. (though after you've sprayed the case,
they'll be the wrong colour...). Keep them somewhere where the glue doesn't
get dusty...
15) there are three screws visible, two on the left, one on the right.
remove the one on the right and the matching (symmetrical) screw from the
left.
16) pull off the pointer cap
17) use fingernails to split the two halves of the screen cover, starting at
the bottom seems to be easiest. There are 13 latches.
18) remove the flourescent inverter board by removing the screw bottom left,
the flat cable bottom left (works the same as the keyboard cable), and the
flourescent output. There's a locating catch at the top of the board.
19) Remove the LCD screen by removing the four screws (one each corner) and
tilting it carefully till you can release the cable connector CN1 - that's
the same type as the other end of the cable.
20) there are three cables connecting to the power switch board which need
removing, then it lifts off
21) remove pointer cable then the two screws holding the metalwork in. There
are lots of bits of metal (well, three) here all of which need to go back in
the same order (hint hint)
22) now you just need to get out the cable. This is to some extent curled up
inside the right hand side hinge and there doesn't appear to be space to get
it out...don't panic.
23) remove the screw holding the left hand hinge to the screen lid
24) remove the screw holding the cable assembly to the cover
25) this next bit is impossible to explain...there's a pop-off bit of
plastic inside the cover on the right hand side, almost inside the hinge.
When this is removed, there's enough space to feed the cable through the
hole.
26) *the next comment is taken verbatim from the Haynes Manual. For those
who don't have this delight, the Haynes Manuals are DIY car maintenance
references which are occasionally accurate but which have two big lies...*
27) reassembly is the reversal of the above procedure. There is now no
reason why the engine will not start.
>
> > Anyone figure out how to remove the screen parts?? Or
> > would masking tape hurt the screen?
Masking tape is probably a bad idea...
Neil
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