Date: Tue, 21 Aug 2001 06:11:20
From: "neil barnes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Replacing 70CT LCD
>Date: Mon, 20 Aug 2001 21:45:39 +0000
>From: "Matthew Hanson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Replacing 70CT LCD
>
>>Welcome back, Matt!
>
>Heya Neil!
>
>>Don't tell me that, I'm coming to CA next month!
>
>Oh man... Look out for all of those loose hockey pucks flying every
>direction on the freeways out there! And DON'T jay walk. Not because
>you're very likely to get a ticket, but because CA drivers aren't used to
>having jay walkers in the road and are famous for running them over. It's
>a
>bit like being a manatee in Florida waterways.
Thanks. I'll bear that in mind. Your wonderful example will remind me :)
Hope you're better now...
>
>>Likeliest is that either the fluorescent lamp or the exciter circuit has
>>given up the ghost...you can replace the exciter circuit easily, don't
>>even
>>have to take the LCD out, but I've never looked at the lamps themselves.
>
>Hmm... so was that blinking before the 70CT LCD went black an indication
>that it wasn't the LCD that went south? That's interesting. When I put
>the
>LCD from the 50CT into the 70CT, if it doesn't light up, that will confirm
>the problem is a lamp or circuit ay?
Sadly no - it will just confirm that it doesn't light up...but lamp/exciter
is likely.
>
>>Either will swap from the 50. Or you could just swap the whole lid...
>
>Where is the exciter circuit? If it's on the MB, and IT'S bad, then
>swapping the whole lid would be a lot easier, and maybe the 1st test I
>should try.
The exciter is the long thin chunk of pcb just on the left hand side of the
lid - it's held in with the 'other' screw when you have the lid undone
(which I discovered you can do without dismembering completey)
>
>>(Or you could give it up as a bad job and send me a present of the
>.>wreckage!)
>
>Heh... still trolling for parts ay Neil? :-P
Always - I'd love a 70 motherboard, just had to drop the speed of my 50 to
make it work with a 20G disk :(
>
>>The tubes have a finite life - a few thousand hours - so you're better
>>off
>>using the auto-off power saver under the hairy lightbulb in windows.
>
>Yeah... I've got that set for a 30 minute auto off.
Good.
>
>Still, don't know why the top half of the case is fighting me, or why
>taking
>off that one screw seems to get the back right corner (looking at the
>unit's
>keyboard/screen from the front) to begin to lift off. It's not listed in
>the manual as a screw that needs removing.
Shouldn't be a problem - AFAIK the only thing that's different apart from
the motherboard is that the 70 keyboard connector has one less wire in
it...probably a clip there that diesn't want to release. Thumbnail round the
seam might work. But as I said above, you don't need to remove the bottom
half if you only want to get into the screen, pop the seam with a thumbnail
*carefully* and you should just split the top of the clamshell.
Neil
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