I did a similar approach as SteveS. I used the standard 47 tooth
sprocket in the back with a 13 tooth driver, and used a gear reduction
with a jackshaft to get the final GR into the 5s. This also solved the
PMG-132 rotation issue... excessive brush wear is reported with CCW.
Fianally this also allowed the motor to be placed higher in the
chassis, and better battery placement/balance resulted.

Jeff

On Fri, Nov 7, 2008 at 10:53 AM, SteveS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Do you know what kind of current you pull no load (wheel off ground)?
>
> My bike is probably heavier; I'm probably heavier (190), and I think the
> shaft drive is somewhat less efficient; but I don't think that's all enough
> to explain the difference.
>
> Well in any case I don't think I have any good reason not to add a gear
> reduction. When I built my E-mini-bike I tried to use a single gear
> reduction and it barely would go after pushing it off stopped. When I added
> a 3:1 jackshaft it actually started performing nicely. It made a huge
> difference.
>
> - SteveS
>
> damon henry wrote:
>>
>> Your current numbers look much higher than I would have expected.  Years
>> ago when I first put together my motorcycle, after I had the motor and
>> sprockets mounted, I took it out for a couple of test runs with a battery in
>> my lap and a pair of jumper cables.  With one 12 volt 16 ahr Hawker it
>> pulled about 20 amps and barely crawled along at perhpas 1 -2 mph.  Two
>> batteries in series bumped the current up to about 40 amps and a brisk
>> walking speed 3 in series up to around 80 amps although I don't think I ever
>> let it get up to speed as the battery terminal started getting real hot and
>> the jumper cable tried to weld in place before I could pull it off.  Since
>> there was no controller, the battery amps and motor amps were the same.
>>  The closest point of comparison between your chart and my experience is
>> probably with me riding with the two Hawkers and you running at 5 mph.  I
>> was on the pavement and you in the grass so that counts for something, but
>> to make the numbers easy, if my batteries were sagging to 20 volts and
>> pushing 40 amps it took me about 800 watts to move at roughly the same speed
>> you were going with 2667 watts.  Something in your setup is much less
>> efficient than mine.  Typically 2667 watts would be enough to hold me
>> cruising at 20+ mph.
>>  damon
>>
>> > Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 08:31:47 -0500
>> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> > To: listserv@electricmotorcycles.net
>> > Subject: Re: [ElectricMotorcycles] BMW update - data
>> >
>> > I hope I'm not double-posting; I think the first email was sent from
>> > the wrong address. Anyway....
>> >
>> > I realized I should have taken data before taking my direct drive apart.
>> > So I put it back together and connected my Palm AXEmon to the Alltrax.
>> > This is all with a 36V pack made up of 3 12V Hawker SBS-60 (60 A-H)
>> > SLAs. Here's what I found:
>> >
>> > MotI: Motor Amps
>> > BatI: Battery Amps
>> > Watts: Watts (Battery Amps x Battery Volts)
>> > % : Percent throttle
>> > Condition: I ran three tests: the motor by itself in the frame, motor
>> > connected to drive train with wheel lifted up, and actual runs over
>> > fairly flat grassy area
>> >
>> > MotI BatI Watts % Condition
>> > 23 2.3 85 10 Motor only, no load
>> > 32 8.0 290 25 same
>> > 32 3.2 117 10 Motor,shaft,wheel raised up (no load)
>> > 59 14.7 528 25 same
>> > 312 78.0 2667 25 Running on flat grassy area - maybe 5 MPH
>> > 473 165.5 5397 35 same, but faster speed - maybe 10 MPH
>> >
>> > I found it didn't take much to rail out the controller (500A). The
>> > brushes were pretty warm after a few minutes of riding around at low
>> > speed.
>> >
>> > Has anyone else taken data under no load? Do the numbers look
>> > reasonable?
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> >
>> > SteveS
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > .
>> >
>>
>>
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