Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern. > big hole...
Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged edges, won't help your hands. > pump... To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction on the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and rout it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift out the companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce that will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it does to eat anything it can reach. If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to 25 gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false assumptions and _that_ never helps anything. Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps full, monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want it to. 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the rudder, prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most likely suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs to suit; West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under most of the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so it stays in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only the one pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of barnacles. Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores is probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for under water and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8" sticks or tubes; temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in about 10 minutes after kneading parts together Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to drive than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use battens to aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box stores (HD at least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but check a piece for bend-ability before planning on it. IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas from an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would work for you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability. Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and you'll just find a hose off a through-hull or something. Rufus _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list [email protected] To adjust your membership settings over the web http://liveaboardonline.com/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to [email protected] To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] The archives are at http://www.liveaboardonline.com/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
