>Tony, Dear God! You mean I did something right? How refreshing! I normally bumble around hoping a solution will present itself.
Thanks, Tim > > >---- Original Message ---- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: Off-center pegs >Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 18:47:29 +0100 > >>Tim, >> >>Your "non-elegant " solution is, unless I am very much mistaken, >precisely >>why you have three holes in your pegshaver! If you had an >adjustable one, >>you would open it as wide as necessary to get the peg started, and >gradually >>tighten it up. I too have had the off centre pegs problem, but I >think >>that was down to bad turning. >> >>Tony >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "timothy motz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>; ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2005 6:34 PM >>Subject: Re: Off-center pegs >> >> >>> >Jon, >>> I'm not as skilled a turner as you and I'm lazy. A couple of >years >>> ago I bought a Vega lathe duplicator for my little table-top >lathe. >>> It follows a template made from storm door window plexiglass. So >I >>> basically round off the stock, take the cutter into to the widest >>> part of the peg (the head) and then just use the duplicator to >guide >>> the cutting from there. I can't do as fine a turning as you can, >but >>> I'm happy. >>> >>> Chad Neal, who lives in Columbus, Ohio and has a lot of experience >>> turning pegs, says that he once had the same problem and decided >that >>> he was trying to take off too much wood with the shaver. He >>> tightened up his turning tolerances and the problem disappeared. >>> After hearing from Chad, I've tried backing up and beginning to >shave >>> at a larger hole on my multi-hole peg shaver. That takes off >>> irregularities and begins to give the final taper. I then work >down >>> the hole sizes, taking off more irregularities and finally shaving >>> the peg to the final dimensions. Not an elegant solution, but it >>> seems to have taken care of the problem. I'm a simple man with >>> simple needs for pegs. And thank God (and Chad) that a solution >was >>> available, because I don't have an endless supply of the mountain >ash. >>> >>> Tim >>> > >>> > >>> >---- Original Message ---- >>> >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> >To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> >Subject: Re: Off-center pegs >>> >Date: Wed, 2 Mar 2005 07:33:13 -0500 >>> > >>> >>Dana and Timothy, >>> >> >>> >>I haven't gotten my lute to the point of needing pegs, but being >one >>> >who >>> >>likes to change gears I've gotten into the peg making while I'm >>> >still >>> >>finishing the mold. Tim, you know I bought David v.E's course on >>> >your >>> >>advice. I've made myself a shaver, partly because they are so >damned >>> >>expensive and partly because I didn't see one I wanted. I have a >>> >rule for >>> >>the house, if it involves heat or electricity I pay the price (I >>> >live in a >>> >>condo apartment, and were I to make a fire with a tool I'd made >I'd >>> >be in >>> >>trouble with the insurance, and suits from the neighbors). So I >>> >spent the >>> >>money for a commercial bending iron, even though I could have >made >>> >one. >>> >> >>> >>As to the shaver, one can get two double sided planer blades at >>> >Sears for >>> >>about $11 (no way to get one, they are in two packs). That >solves >>> >the >>> >>tempering and whatever that involves fire. I can only think that >Tim >>> >is >>> >>either a bit out of alignment with the shaver, or pressing too >hard. >>> >(I've >>> >>been making good pegs, even though I haven't a real peg box for >the >>> >lute yet >>> >>I've made a "dummy one" to test the pegs). The final cuts by the >>> >shaver >>> >>should shave the entire peg, the shaper should be set up so all >the >>> >uneven >>> >>points are taken out before fully inserting the peg. >>> >> >>> >>As to the turning, I've been following Davids plan. I can't see >the >>> >>rechucking that Dana is doing. I was turning wood before doing >this, >>> >so have >>> >>a number of tools. But David does his with only a roughing >guouge >>> >and a 3mm >>> >>cut off tool. He makes a template of formica (couldn't find a >piece >>> >cheap >>> >>enough, so I bought a stick on floor tile for about 89 cents. He >>> >over >>> >>lengths the blank and uses a three blade pin drive, I have a >nice >>> >two blade >>> >>of just the right diameter to avoid chipping the tool on the >drive, >>> >and a >>> >>live center at the other end. I don't have to rechuck. >>> >> >>> >>So let me suggest the process. First round the blank (not >>> >necessarily fully, >>> >>as one can make the blank thinner on one axis where the head is >>> >flattened to >>> >>save wood). Turn a deep groove into the head end (drive end) >with >>> >the cut >>> >>off tool to leave a piece that will later be cut off, but is the >>> >drive >>> >>vehicle. Then do it again, the head length below the first cut. >Now >>> >you have >>> >>a set point that will be the wide point of the taper (use the >>> >template to >>> >>test). Then do the same at the far end, with the template for >the >>> >desired >>> >>small end (but leave a bit for the cut off). Now shape the taper >>> >from the >>> >>already cut depth of the top and the small end. David does this >with >>> >what >>> >>looks in his photos to be a large roughing gouge (I think he has >>> >only two >>> >>turning tools, the 3mm cut off and the roughing gouge, but it >works >>> >for >>> >>him). I tried a skew chisel on my first try at making a taper, >but I >>> >happen >>> >>to own a Sorby Spindlemeister which is perfect for that cut. A >>> >spindle gouge >>> >>would do also. Once the taper is made, using the template at >both >>> >ends (and >>> >>I added a middle, and one should mark the template in distance >from >>> >the top >>> >>of the peg head. And the taper should be a hair oversized. Then >on >>> >can rough >>> >>out the profile of the head, and any ridges between the head and >the >>> >taper. >>> >>At this point we still are chucked as the blank was originally >>> >chucked >>> >>(wrong word, I don't use my jawed chucks - I punch set the two >ends >>> >of the >>> >>blank and press in the two blade drive). What we have is a false >>> >head, then >>> >>a deep cut, then the part that will be the real peg head, then a >>> >small space >>> >>for decorative ridges, or whatever. Then the taper, a hair >>> >oversized. And at >>> >>the tail a bit extra where the live center has driven in. >>> >> >>> >>Now, still "chucked" between centers, shape the profile of the >peg >>> >head. >>> >>Once that is done one can remove the peg an cut it off at head >and >>> >tail, or >>> >>just cut them on the lathe (being careful to catch the flying >peg). >>> >Now to >>> >>the scraper (pencil sharpener), and the band saw or belt sander, >or >>> >both to >>> >>cut the sides of the peg head. The key to all this talk is a >basic. >>> >No >>> >>turner can ever exactly duplicate a rechucking without luck. >Never >>> >rechuck >>> >>unless really necessary. >>> >> >>> >>I'm using cocobolo for the pegs, and I bought some "eye wash" >that >>> >is needed >>> >>after turning that. >>> >> >>> >>Tim, I made a thickness guage, not from your suggestion, nor >from >>> >anyone >>> >>else's drawings. I'll send a picture on day. One Sear's gauge at >>> >$35, plus >>> >>about $5 worth of scrap. >>> >> >>> >>Best, Jon >>> >> >>> >> >>> >> >>> >>To get on or off this list see list information at >>> >>http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html >>> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >>
