Thanks for your advice,
I've decided to go for Englemann. I'm going for grade 7 (Second down
from highest on their grade) which the timber supplier describes as
"Near perfection - very slow growth, the widest
growth ring approximately 2mm within the template area.
Very limited acceptance of colour variation, otherwise same as
grade 8. Best possible quartering and
the minimum possible run-out (short grain). The wood will
be stiff with a high pitched tap tone."
So hopefully, I should be in for a good soundboard!!
James.
On 16 May 2012 13:35, Louis Aull <[1][email protected]> wrote:
James,
The high grade Englemann I have used produces a very warm full
sound.
It is also by far the best looking wood. It has to be about 20%
thicker
than Alpine for the same strength. I have not worked with Alpine
because the few pieces I have purchased (top grade) were of poor
quality by comparison. I like to use Sitka spruce on ren lutes for
it's
brightness.
Now some words of caution: the soft part of the wood is very soft
and
will pull out with tape. Chip carving on Englemann is extremely
difficult due to that softness. It would rather tear than cut.
Other
rosette carving produces a lot of fuzz and is difficult. I don't
bother with the chip carving and focus on perfecting the rosette.
The
only tape I have found that will not pull the soft wood out is
drafting
tape, used and removed with great caution. I usually leave a few
tenths
of mm around the edges for the final sanding to get the divots in
the
soft wood flat again. It soaks up dirt, stain, and varnish like a
sponge so plan on being more cleanly. That same sponge effect
makes it
glue better. Anyone who plays one of my Englemann lutes wears a
pinky
protector or does not touch the top. (Including Hoppy Smith)
Is it worth it? To me, no doubt. After my first Englemann top, I
wouldn't play the others. I have since replaced all the other
tops.
Louis Aull
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