I went for a slightly different solution and made a level shifter board that fits into the TPDD 8x2 plug on one end with a DB25 towards the Model T, then used an off the shelf straight through serial cable to connect the TPDD to the Model T. Works really well no need to crimp anything just all very straightforward soldering :)
Did need to ‘extend’ the board a little to get the connector to fit properly into the TPDD. I used an edge solder approach as you can see (Hope the image is OK to attach?) I didn’t bother with a enclosure the board is really tiny, although thought about using shrink tubing. It could of been a DB9 but I had a lot of DB25s to use up :) [https://644db4de3505c40a0444-327723bce298e3ff5813fb42baeefbaa.ssl.cf1.rackcdn.com/97c940af13754774f6a8530e6e639a35.png] From: M100 <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> on behalf of Brian White <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Reply-To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Date: Saturday, June 1, 2019 at 5:14 PM To: <[email protected]<mailto:[email protected]>> Subject: Re: [M100] dsub 25 hood that fits <snip> Another idea is make a different pcb which goes on the tpdd end instead of the m100 end. A crimp-on 2x4 idc (he said, redundantly, given what idc stands for) plug does not fit in the hole in a tpdd, but maybe a female 2x4 pcb header does. If you could just extend a female pcb header to stick up off a pcb surface just a little more, then you could have a small pcb that sits flat against the back of the tpdd, and has a plug that sticks in to the tpdd. That would eliminate the *excruciating* process of crimping individual tiny dupont connector pins I'm using right now. Then just cut the db9 off a common modem cable and solder that to the pcb, and you have a full cable that was much easier to build, and which fits in a M100. (Rick's original cables were easy enough for him to build only because he used FB100 cables to provide the tpdd plugs. I'm going for more available parts.) Only remaining problem there is some sort of enclosure for the pcb. Maybe the 2x4 header can be a right-angle type, and so the pcb sticks out 90 degrees from the tpdd in line with the cable. Then, assuming the whole pcb is small so it doesn't stick out too far, and give it a little dog-bone shape, you could zip-tie the serial cable to it and enclose the whole thing in simple heat shrink. I don't know if you can get a right-angle header to stick out far enough from the side of a pcb to allow it to reach in to the pins in the tpdd though. And I don't think there's enough room for the pcb to extend inside the hole either. <snip>
