I'm getting some  dims out of kicad now. Take me a few minutes...
I think I'll add a layer for dims and print that.

The actual pcb doesn't have a chamfer at the corners, it has a tiny step, but it's all so small, and the router radius is so large, that in practical terms it might as well be a chamfer. I was just trying to give an idea for if you had an existing original rex1 in you hands that you bought years ago, just sanding down the corners would be easy to do and should work.

And for working on a new design, it doesn't necessarily have to be that exact way. You just need some way to locate the pcb in the carrier. It could be some other notch or something instead of those tiny vertical walls at the 4 corners. Those are just left over from the original carrier that held a dip chip. The pin actually could handle one end, but I wouldn't want another such pin on the other end. Too much real-estate and then it wouldn't be as good at enforcing polarity. All in all, maybe chamfering the corners is the most practical way to trap the pcb after all. For that matter, I don't assume your current pcb even has empty space for the hole for that pin anyway. I was assuming you'd nip it off or I'd make a model that doesn't have it.

--
bkw


On 8/10/19 9:50 AM, Stephen Adolph wrote:
Update,

Took a close look at the latest.  Looks great!
I like the retention clips that hold the PCB in place. That makes a lot of sense. Looks like you have already opened up the space on the carrier for parts across the underside of the PCB-yes?

I dont use kicad;  is there a board dimension you could provide?  ( is this written down somewhere?)0
Width  0.64 inch  (oshpark)
Length  1.47 inch (oshpark)
Chamfer dimension  ( done by hand?)

Reserved space for components on underside of PCB.  IE need to know where chips, parts and leads can safely go.

Thanks.. Steve

On Saturday, August 10, 2019, Stephen Adolph <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

    Brian,

    I get that this carrier improves the look of the install but I
    dont see how it improves operation.  It doesn't improve contacts
    in my mind does it?  I've done so many installations of rex
    now...I think the spacer and ribbon approach works fine.  I agree
    that I have a lot of practice though.

    REXCPM has uses most of the secondary ie bottom side for parts. 
    Like REX2.  So it won't work with this carrier.  Also the flash
    and cpld are placed right at the edge.

    What is the board dimension you need?  I will have to reduce size
    by the sounds of it and move parts. Not sure if I can, depending. 
    It would mean pretty much every track re layed out.

    Can you make a design that leaves pretty much all of the secondary
    side available for TSOP48 and VQFP44?  From what I saw you have a
    cutout for the flash only, in the center.


    Thx Steve




    On Friday, August 9, 2019, Brian K. White <[email protected]
    <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

        That modified rex pcb and matching carrier I was working on
        are now at a usable state.

        There is a pcb which is REX1 electrically, with only some
        layout and edge cut changes.

        There is another pcb with the same outline that uses the same
        carrier, but has only a simple eeprom on it. I'm calling that
        Teeprom.

        There is a github with both the carrier 3d model and an empty
        template version of the matching pcb, to make new circuits
        using the same pcb and carrier. So hopefully this is reusable.

        By now I have received and tested multiples of both pcbs and
        the carrier, and everything is dialed-in pretty well finally.
        I have several rex's and teeproms and a bunch of carriers all
        of the current/latest versions the same as what's currently
        orderable on oshpark and shapeways, and the boards all fit
        perfect in all the carriers, and the carriers & boards all fit
        and work in my couple M100's, T102, and T200.

        I overhauled the build and flash directions a lot. Filled in
        more deatails with actual steps as if going from scratch,
        expanded some steps into their own separate docs but linked
        right where you need them. Could still do more but it's just
        better than before. Simplified and organized a little better
        (I hope).

        http://tandy.wiki/REX
        http://tandy.wiki/Teeprom
        http://tandy.wiki/Pcb2molex8878 <http://tandy.wiki/Pcb2molex8878>

        http://shpws.me/RngB
        https://github.com/aljex/pcb2molex8878
        <https://github.com/aljex/pcb2molex8878>

        https://photos.app.goo.gl/zynHU4LSpd5BZBYC9
        <https://photos.app.goo.gl/zynHU4LSpd5BZBYC9>


        I'll get the rex and teeprom full sources up in a github or
        something soon too. The .kicad_pcb files are already available
        via oshpark, but you want the rest of the kicad files too if
        you were going to work on them.

        Anyway, it's at the point now where I'm saying it's ok to
        order these things and they'll work and I'm not still changing
        them and obsoleting them right after you ordered them.

        Just for the record, I have the shapeway shop set at 0% markup
        for all the items. I don't want any damned shop but that's
        just the only way you can share the model on shapeways so that
        other people can order prints without downloading and
        uploading the mesh files themselves. The same model is also on
        thingiverse where you can share without having a shop, but
        thingiverse is mostly FDM printers, and I don't think any fdm
        printers are good enough for this part. But, if you have your
        own printer and want to try it, the mesh file is up there. So
        the only reason there is a "shop" on shapeways is just to get
        shapeways laser sintered nylon printing. It comes out very
        clean and accurate and strong enough that the part is actually
        usable.

        You may notice that the seemingly nicer print options are not
        enabled for this on shapeways. That's on purpose. If you get
        the part printed in multijet fusion, it looks great, but
        doesn't fit.

        Unfortunately, for the carrier, my freecad "source" file,
        while available in the github, isn't actually very
        "source"-like. It's essentially just the final 3d solid shape
        just like the stl file for printing, not all the steps to
        build it up, nor any parametrics you can edit. But I do plan
        to redraw it from scratch in freecad or better yet openscad
        sometime. Especially openscad will make it awesome for keeping
        in git.

        Also if you wanted, it IS actually possible to modify a
        standard REX to go in one of these carriers.

        You would do 4 things:

        1: Cut the polarity pin off the carrier. Doesn't have to be
        any more accurate than just lower than the lip on the bottom
        tray. Just use wire cutters or a knife.

        2: Sand both ends of the pcb (the two short dimensions) down
        about 0.5mm each, or whatever it takes until the overall
        length is 37.35mm or shorter, and doing both ends equally.
        This will eat into the jtag pin holes a little, but actually
        not enough to hurt anything. You could even still use the jtag
        port if you ever needed to. It doesn't affect normal operation
        at all.

        3: Chamfer all 4 corners of the pcb edge about 1mm each
        corner. Make the very ends narrow enough to get between the
        vertical walls on the ends of the carrier, yet don't chew into
        the edge contacts at pins 1, 15, 15, 28 more than about
        10-20%. You can actually graze the ends of those 4 corner
        contacts slightly and they'll still make perfectly good
        contact. But you should be able to just barely not touch the
        actual half-circle part.

        4: Remove anything glued to the bottom of the pcb. Some glue
        residue left behind would be ok on the pcb surface next to the
        flash chip, up to the thickness of the flash chip, but the
        surface of the flash chip should have nothing thicker than
        paper on it.

-- bkw



        On 7/29/19 9:34 AM, Josh Malone wrote:

            Fred,

            If this is one of my REX units (shipped with wood spacer
            and a purple
            polka-dot ribbon) then my apologies for your issues. I
            tested the
            spacer sizing in 100, 102, and 200 units and found what
            seemed like
            the right size to prevent over-insertion and "spontaneous
            removal".
            I'd have to check my notes, but I sanded my boards down to
            a precise
            size which I think was 0.048" (~1.2mm). They do require a
            very firm
            insertion into the socket -- you may feel uncomfortable
            applying that
            much force -- but you should feel the board snap into
            place below the
            catch in the pins. If you don't feel a "snap" then it is
            possible that
            the spacer board is too thick for whatever reason. I don't
            use any
            adhesive, etc. on my boards to make it easier to repair
            them should
            anything go wrong, but I've also had one other issue with
            a user
            neglecting to install the spacer which caused damage to
            the REX and
            his M100, so I will be changing to adhesive spacers on my
            next batch
            (which I'm producing the Tandy Assembly).

            When you install REX, do you feel it snap into place? Can
            you send
            pictures of the installed REX? (You'll have to find a host
            for them
            since the list doesn't handle attachments; or send them
            directly to
            me)

            Brian's work with the new REX PCB and the 3D-printed
            carrier looks
            neat -- I'm following his progress -- so if you continue
            to have fit
            issues one of those carriers might solve your problem, as
            well.

            https://photos.app.goo.gl/aNfjvB1XucSehPGB9
            <https://photos.app.goo.gl/aNfjvB1XucSehPGB9>

            -Josh

            On Sat, Jul 27, 2019 at 8:29 PM Stephen Adolph
            <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>> wrote:

                Hi Fred,

                Honestly my first thought here is ... what software
                are you running and have you ever done a total wipe of
                rex followed by a reload from scratch of the software?

                These symptoms more or less sound like corruption of
                the directory which can happen on older software loads.

                I've tried to catch all the fixes in my last supported
                software load.  Which is at bitchin100.
                ..Steve


                On Saturday, July 27, 2019, Fred Whitaker
                <[email protected] <mailto:[email protected]>>
                wrote:

                    I have been having trouble with my REX chip
                    becoming loose and losing data as a result. The
                    computer also locks up. I was wondering if anyone
                    had any ideas about better support for the chip
                    corners, instead of a loose piece of wood under it.
                    I was thinking of trying to find some small
                    diameter thin stick on feet, about 1/8 inch thick.
                    Has anyone had a similar problem?
                    The problem will be the same with any of the ROM's
                    on similar boards. The Super ROM that I have is on
                    a similar board but it also has a full length
                    spacer glued to the bottom of the board.
                    Until I can resolve this issue I am putting my REX
                    chips in storage. This is only true for the Model
                    100 and Model 102.



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