The M100 is one of the few machines I recommend always doing a recap on. Not all of the caps seem to leak but those that do create a mess and you wind up removing most of the caps anyhow to clean it up.
Clean up: The NiCad battery has an alkaline electrolyte, clean off loose solder mask, etc. using a fiberglass pen really helps. Neutralize with a mild acid like vinegar or citric acid. Flush with distilled water and then 99% alcohol to help get rid of the water. Electrolytic caps have an acidic electrolyte, clean up the same way as the battery but use a mild alkaline solution like ammonia or many household cleaners to neutralize. Flush with water as described above. I like to then tin the copper, clean away the flux and coat with a trace sealant. If the damage is not bad, you may be able to get by with just a cleaning and wipe down with alcohol. If the copper looks like it’s been etched away in layers you need to neutralize the area. If you look up any of the M100 related videos I’ve done, you mill probably see me doing some of the above. All of them need it done. Jeff Birt From: M100 <[email protected]> On Behalf Of Stephen Adolph Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2022 10:31 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [M100] more on replacing M100 caps! I recently took a really close look at an M100 board that died on me. Actually I am on a mission to fix all my hoard. Going well!. Anyhow, ... wow some of these caps can do a real number on the PCB. I know really appreciate all the wisdom around replacing the caps especially the ones in the power supply. Question for the group. I think you can get corrosion from the nicad spewing gunk OR the caps spewing gunk. What's a good way to clean up and neutralize the gunk so you can stop the corrosion creep? Thanks! Steve
