Birt's advice is correct, and Josh would advise the same. The thing I would add is to note any traces / pads that seem black or darkened under the soldermask, even though the soldermask is undamaged. This is corrosion that is following the trace and must be fixed as well.
This can be mitigated by using the "fiberglass pen" to strip off the soldermask (or you can use a soldering iron tip, as the soldermask bond to the trace has been weakened) from over the trace and clean per Birt's instructions. Re-tin the trace if it will take new solder. You can overcoat with the soldermask repair liquid or just use clear nail polish. If this is not done, the corrosion to the trace will continue. Regards, Peter > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 11 May 2022 23:31:15 -0400 > From: Stephen Adolph <[email protected]> > To: [email protected] > Subject: [M100] more on replacing M100 caps! > Message-ID: > < > camcmnv4nmmxja6u+ypqe7n2ro4jj5vfnjoe+wpahb_s_1ii...@mail.gmail.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" > > I recently took a really close look at an M100 board that died on me. > > Actually I am on a mission to fix all my hoard. Going well!. > > Anyhow, ... wow some of these caps can do a real number on the PCB. I know > really appreciate all the wisdom around replacing the caps especially the > ones in the power supply. > > Question for the group. > I think you can get corrosion from the nicad spewing gunk OR the caps > spewing gunk. > > What's a good way to clean up and neutralize the gunk so you can stop the > corrosion creep? > > Thanks! > > Steve > -------------- next part -------------- > An HTML attachment was scrubbed... > URL: < > http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20220511/98a2aac4/attachment-0001.html > > > > >
