The ebay listing says they are 2.4GHZ. The HC-12 is 433mhz. I missed
that initially because they look pretty much identical physically.
The HC-12 is supposedly transparent and can operate at the much lower
baudrates. Most bluetooth modules can only go down to 9600 baud. You
might recall from our other group discussions that I ended up making an
ESP32 bluetooth serial relay for the Hero and RB5X because of the 7 bit
data width and the lower baudrates. The old roving networks bluetooth
modules supported 7 bits, but the firmware was later changed when
Microchip bought RN and that support was dropped.
Others have used this HC-12 module with our robots.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVCrRt5IkiI
On 10/1/2025 6:07 PM, Dave Everett wrote:
Certainly more expensive, they used to be $11 each and they were rock
solid. I will need to order a set of the ones from Amazon and give
them a go.
Dave
On Wed, 1 Oct 2025 at 5:32 pm, Scott McDonnell
<[email protected]> wrote:
They look like expensive versions of the HC-12 modules.
https://www.amazon.com/433Mhz-Wireless-Replace-Bluetooth-Antenna/dp/B0C7M99BQM
On 9/30/2025 9:08 PM, Dave Everett wrote:
Check out the description for these:
https://ebay.us/m/drkr36
Dave
On Wed, 1 Oct 2025 at 11:04, Scott McDonnell
<[email protected]> wrote:
1200 baud seems to be the most reliable. 9600 is possible,
though.
On 9/30/2025 8:50 PM, Dave Everett wrote:
What was the max baud rate for the m100? I regularly use
transceiver modules that do ttl rs-232. They run at 9600 but
from memory that can be changed. I just don’t recall if it
can go lower.
Dave
On Wed, 1 Oct 2025 at 08:50, Scott McDonnell
<[email protected]> wrote:
I plan to dedicate one of my Model 100s to use as a
controller for my
80s robots.
These are my planned mods to implement this:
1. Internal retro wifi modem (oldnet.com
<http://oldnet.com>)
I plan to make hack onto the MC14412 chip. I have
no plan to
retain the original modem functionality, but if I did, I
am thinking I
could implement this via the modem enable signal. That
would also allow
me to control power to the ESP8266 so that it did not
drain the battery
when not in use. I could bring the enable line out to a
switch to
reconnect the enable line to the MC14412. At the moment,
I can't really
think of why I might ever want the original modem.
I will use a Wemos D1 mini with an external antenna that
I will attach
to the M100 body.
2. Complete my originally idea to port the TPDDuino
project to the
sparkfun openlog hardware and make this internal
Here, I am thinking the BCR TTL serial mod would be
appropriate.
This frees up the serial port which I will need for the
robot control.
Not sure if TSDOS already supports this, however. There
could could be
some benefits to the faster speed possible with the BCR
hack.
3. Wireless serial
For this, I have not decided whether to use
bluetooth or an HC-12
module. This will be in an external modules so that I
can use the serial
port for other purposes. I do plan to add a fused 5V
output to pin 25 of
the serial port. This was a common pin to use back in
the day for adding
a power output. It doesn't appear to be connected to
ground in the M100
per the schematics, but I will need to double-check.
4. Joystick mod mentioned previously
If I will be using the BCR port for the TPPDuino,
then I will end
up implementing the ideas discussed in that thread for
using the
parallel port. But I also might just hack into the
keyboard matrix
arrows since this will be dedicated for this purpose.
Still weighing
this while I work on the other mods.
-----------------------
Interested in internal battery hacks. I have been
thinking of installing
a 7.2V nimh pack. I am not really sure it could fit
anywhere inside, though.
While looking through old magazines, I had seen products
that were
available at the time which were battery packs that also
doubled as tilt
stands. I liked the look of those and might end up 3-D
printing
something like that. There was a simpler project to use
a PVC pipe with
D cell batteries and the author fashioned that to also
act as a tilt stand.
For my first M100, I had modified a book light to attach
to the BCR port
to provide light for the LCD. I wasn't especially happy
with it as the
clear plastic bezel is too glossy and reflected too much
of the light. I
feel like if there were any possible enhancement here,
it would need to
be some sort of front light mounted internally. This is
probably outside
of how much effort I want to put into this.
Interested in hearing about any experience and efforts
into trying to
improve the readability of the LCD.
