i have the digital version of this cape but i need to keep free the opto 
and pwm output for future project.
So Marius (the furaday author) help me for manage PWM from Digital output 0 
so this is 24v pwm with my setup. (for reverse F/R and enable i use also 
digital output)

I not fully understand it is ok for use the amazon board you found for 
convert my PWM to 0/5v PWM (with try to invert pin) and use 2 other channel 
for enable and direction for the ebay controler?

Than you suggest i now think is better to not use the rs232 except for make 
all more complicated.

Thanks a lot


Le mardi 16 juillet 2019 05:00:04 UTC+2, justin White a écrit :
>
> The Furaday cape says it has 5v PWM outputs on P1....
>
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1D2rlEZcO0M6Qlk-UZ7ufp3wbE0IHuzRvnHuqvfVDcJY/edit#gid=1554435935
>
> Maybe you're using a field output as PWM? If you can't get around that 
> these are cheap and worth a try.....
>
> https://www.amazon.com/24V-Optocoupler-Voltage-Level-Converter/dp/B01EY767S8?th=1
>
> You can feed the 24v PWM into the input and it will output an inverted 5v 
> PWM. I don't have a BBB but looking at hal_pru the pwmgen component has a 
> scale pin and it looks like a value of -1 will invert the PWM and cancel 
> the boards inversion out if it matters which it probably doesn't. You can 
> just use an optocoupler output on that cape to pull the F/R pin to 
> speed_gnd on the driver board to change directions.
>
> The cape handles 0-5v analog outputs as well so you could use that too.
>
> The KB drive is just a PIA at that point. You can use the serial thing but 
> I'm not sure what difference you think it makes. The only thing that serial 
> can do is command a speed output to the driver board. You still have to 
> close the loop with feedback coming from something else, like an encoder 
> which doesn't change regardless of whether you use PWM/serial/or analog. If 
> you command a speed of 300rpms No matter which you choose all it can do is 
> command an output that you tune to be as close to relate to 300RPM as you 
> can. So if you go to take a cut and the spindle bogs down there is no way 
> to detect that unless you have an encoder and run a PID loop. The PID will 
> compensate for the slowdown by increasing or decreasing the output command 
> to hold steady, it could be a serial command to speed up, a PWM duty cycle 
> increase, or an analog voltage increase, it doesn't matter if the PID is 
> setup right.
>
> Analog is a bit more susceptible to noise than PWM. Serial is fine if you 
> really want to deal with it but I'm not sure I see why you would. It looks 
> like if you configure the outputs on your BBB/cape right all really don't 
> need anything extra.
>
> On Monday, July 15, 2019 at 9:31:48 PM UTC-4, Aurelien wrote:
>>
>> Yes i have found this controler firstly by schearching something with PWM 
>> input and possible reverse.
>>
>> My problem with the ebay controler is to convert my furaday 0/24v PWM to 
>> 0/5v PWM isolated, unfortunatly i'm not able to design something like this 
>> myself. 
>> The seller send to me only the 3 first attached documents after waiting 
>> and ask again and again from 4 month.
>> (edit : i have think about keep the k24p-10v with the ebay controler and 
>> use the reverse function the easy way)
>>
>> The KBMG is retrofited when start the project, in reality i like to keep 
>> this controler if i can found for reversing (maybee find someone and pay 
>> some money for a ready to use solution for this one or for the PWM ebay)
>>
>> For the suggestion about retrofit AC motor it's i think for a lathe with 
>> motor integrated to the spindle this not the best way.
>>
>> Many thanks for your interest
>>
>>
>> Ps : Finally you think it is better for spindle accuracy to have a simple 
>> PWM (or PWM/analog) with pru or a complex C code comp file with serial 
>> communication or this is only more easy to use PWM ? (I'm lost : finalize 
>> the order or not lol)
>>
>

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