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At 15:28 11/01/00 +0000, you wrote:
>From: "Richard Wright" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Hi Basil,
> > >Sorry, but I have a couple of more questions. what is a TOSLINK =
> > >connecter/transmitter or reciever? What do they do? Do i need one of =
> > >these TOSLINK connectors if I have a sound card that has a RCA digital =
> > >output? Do I need a sound card with didigtal outputs to record =
> > >digtitally? Also, How can I get my mini disc to play in a car that only =
> > >has a CD player? Is there a way that I can connect my mini disc player =
> > >to a CD player, and make the music work? Please explain as I am new to =
> > >the MIni DIsc World. Thank You. Basil Fakhry.
> >
> > Q: Do I need a sound card with digital outputs to record digitally?
> > A: Well, yes. If you want to record digitally off your PC anyway. If you
> > just want to record CDs digitally, get yourself a CD player with an
> > optical output (eg. Technics 390/490/590 or Yamaha 493. In fact most
> > CD-players seem to have them these days).
>
>Richard, are you sure the Technics SL-PG390 has a digital-out? I know
>the 490 and 590 do [I recommended the 590 to my father as a good starter
>unit to use with the Sony MD JE520]. I would swear the Richer Sounds mag
>[a UK cheap hifi chain] said the Tehnics 390 as having no digi-out. Course
>they could easily have been wrong so don't hold me to that!
Yeah, I was in Plymouth yesterday and in the Technics Centre, they had the
390, 490 and 590, all of which said "OPTICAL DIGITAL OUTPUT" on the front.
Going by this, I am pretty sure the 390 has an optical digital output.
Richer Sounds do get these things wrong sometimes - they say the Yamaha 393
doesn't have one but the Yamaha website says it does - haven't verified
this yet...
> > P.S. UK is 230V +/-5% @ 50Hz - so is the rest of Europe and that's the way
> > it's staying. My multimeter says it's actually 238V at the moment, but
> > that's within the +/-5% tolerance. NOWHERE is moving UP to 250V - that
> > could cause problems with a lot of appliances which are only rated to work
> > at 240V, especially things with heating elements in...that's another topic
> > altogether - probably on alt.electrical.mains.voltages or something :-)
>
>I agree Wrighty, my meter varies between about 222 and 244VAC here in
>England (Northern Electric district). It's accuracy is +/- 1.5% and 5 digits
>which translates to +/- 10V in the worst case. At present its high, up around
>238-242VAC -- am I correct in thinking the suppliers elecricity meters
>measure current not power so a higher voltage means more power per
>unit charge measured?
I'm not sure about the exact workings of the suppliers electricity meters,
so I can't answer that one I'm afraid.
>On the subject of electric meters, can highly reactive loads (either inductive
>or capacitave) fool a meter about how much power is being supplied and
>is this the reason for a clause in the supply agreement, or is it just because
>its annoying for the electricity supplier?
Again, not totally sure. I know a very reactive load can cause problems
with things like generators - not sure how they affect electricity meters.
>Cheers,
>PrinceGaz -- "if it harms none, do what you will"
Cheers,
Wrighty
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