Pete,
The pump I have to go in the 510 is off a Cressida Twin Cam ~86, and it's the
same as our 86 Crown Royal. The part number is 56200-0341. I'm told that Mazdas
also have a similar pump in size and function and it could be the same pump as
Denso electrics are common in them as well. It's like most things I guess as
for as size goes getting smaller all the time, I like it for the size and ease
of installation.
On speedo drives, what a can of worms (no pun intended) those things are, there
are so many combinations of the drive teeth, diameter of external drive and the
number of worms and size of worm as well. The external drives are much the same
from 16-19 teeth for each of the internal worms except the length of the
trunion and the spindle is different for a 5x or 6x worm. At 20 teeth or above
the diameter of the external toothed drive is bigger and the internal worm
drive is smaller and they are NOT interchangeable. If your original drive was
19 teeth or under, then a 22 tooth is going to need a worm drive change is what
i'm saying and it's a bugga of a job, is it worth it. This is what i was faced
with for the FJ box when i changed to a 3.9 diff ratio which requires a 20
tooth drive and the original drive in mine is 19 teeth. After borrowing drives
and looking at parts books it all got tooooo hard and to say that i was pissed
off with it is an understatement, so i shoved the standard drive back in and
decided the next best thing was to look up a mate who is an instrument tech as
he used to do speedos for police cars. He did my speedo gratis but he said it
is worth ~$60 for a primitive 1024 speedo, the down side of doing it this way
is the odo is not touched but as mine would only be out by around 5% at that
stage i couldn't have cared less if the bloody didn't work at all. In hindsight
I can see why it's rare to get the speedo corrected, it should have been easy
but evidently not always.
I reckon you can do minor changes to a 1024 speedo yourself. All they do is to
adjust the pre-tension on the hairspring, it works best is the speedo is
reading high as the hairspring doesn't like being given less tension after 30
years of zeroing to a specific point. The way they adjust them is interesting
to watch, they have a corrected speedo attached to a variable speed electric
motor, just hook your speedo up to the second cable and adjust it. They adjust
road speedos to read +3-4% to allow for dead accurate speed indicated with new
tyres on and the speedo gradually reads faster as the tyres wear.
regards
terry
Peter and Trace wrote:
> Terry,
> Thanks, sound like what I'm after. What model Toyotas? EFI Camry,
> Corrolla??
> Thanks,
> Pete.
> Also did you say you could get the 22 tooth pinks speedo drive?
>
> ----------
> > From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Subject: Re: Fuel pressure.
> > Date: Sunday, 19 March 2000 13:45
> >
> > Pete,
> > If you don't mind another make in your datto then a Nippondenso pre-pump
> from
> > any of the Toy EFI cars has got ot be a good thing, they are so tiny,
> very
> > quiet, ultra reliable and you can plumb it in so easily as all up it's
> about 1/2
> > the size of a ciggy packet. They are at the wreckers everywhere and cost
> around
> > $25. I used a 260C pump for years until it died but the bracket & filter
> etc. is
> > huge & mega ugly.
> >
> > terry
> >
> >
> > >
> > > From: Peter and Trace <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: Ozdat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Date: Friday, March 17, 2000 6:30 AM
> > > Subject: Fuel pressure.
> > >
> > > >Hi all,
> > > > I have had a prob of engine dying going around left hand corners.
> > > >Installed a fuel pressure guage yesterday and its proved a fuel
> pressure
> > > >problem. I have a gravity fed surge tank underneath the car but
> obviously
> > > >need a HVLP pre pump. What is the best/cheapest pump to use? (need
> to fix
> > > >before race day) Does anyone in Brisbane have anything I my be able
> to use
> > > >or recomend?
> > > > Thanks,
> > > > Pete.
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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