Zac,
Not really, if it's a cable drive i imagine he's going to have the same trouble
we have with the 510. Start with finding out what drive is in it now, teeth and
length of trunion - at a guess it will have the alloy type which is for a 6x
worm on the output shaft. If it's got an electronic sender unit in the box
instead of a cable then it's an instrument dude required for sure.
terry (not very helpful this time)
Zac Campbell wrote:
> Terry, do you know anything about changing the speedo drives on later model
> Nissans? this is a 90's model car my friend wants 17s on!
>
> zac
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry & Heather <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 10:50 PM
> Subject: Re: Fuel pressure & bloody speedo drives
>
> > Pete,
> > The pump I have to go in the 510 is off a Cressida Twin Cam ~86, and it's
> the
> > same as our 86 Crown Royal. The part number is 56200-0341. I'm told that
> Mazdas
> > also have a similar pump in size and function and it could be the same
> pump as
> > Denso electrics are common in them as well. It's like most things I guess
> as
> > for as size goes getting smaller all the time, I like it for the size and
> ease
> > of installation.
> >
> > On speedo drives, what a can of worms (no pun intended) those things are,
> there
> > are so many combinations of the drive teeth, diameter of external drive
> and the
> > number of worms and size of worm as well. The external drives are much the
> same
> > from 16-19 teeth for each of the internal worms except the length of the
> > trunion and the spindle is different for a 5x or 6x worm. At 20 teeth or
> above
> > the diameter of the external toothed drive is bigger and the internal worm
> > drive is smaller and they are NOT interchangeable. If your original drive
> was
> > 19 teeth or under, then a 22 tooth is going to need a worm drive change is
> what
> > i'm saying and it's a bugga of a job, is it worth it. This is what i was
> faced
> > with for the FJ box when i changed to a 3.9 diff ratio which requires a 20
> > tooth drive and the original drive in mine is 19 teeth. After borrowing
> drives
> > and looking at parts books it all got tooooo hard and to say that i was
> pissed
> > off with it is an understatement, so i shoved the standard drive back in
> and
> > decided the next best thing was to look up a mate who is an instrument
> tech as
> > he used to do speedos for police cars. He did my speedo gratis but he said
> it
> > is worth ~$60 for a primitive 1024 speedo, the down side of doing it this
> way
> > is the odo is not touched but as mine would only be out by around 5% at
> that
> > stage i couldn't have cared less if the bloody didn't work at all. In
> hindsight
> > I can see why it's rare to get the speedo corrected, it should have been
> easy
> > but evidently not always.
> >
> > I reckon you can do minor changes to a 1024 speedo yourself. All they do
> is to
> > adjust the pre-tension on the hairspring, it works best is the speedo is
> > reading high as the hairspring doesn't like being given less tension after
> 30
> > years of zeroing to a specific point. The way they adjust them is
> interesting
> > to watch, they have a corrected speedo attached to a variable speed
> electric
> > motor, just hook your speedo up to the second cable and adjust it. They
> adjust
> > road speedos to read +3-4% to allow for dead accurate speed indicated with
> new
> > tyres on and the speedo gradually reads faster as the tyres wear.
> >
> > regards
> > terry
> >
>
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