Brad,
A piece of real good luck! If you plan to have this engine for a while, I
would go the 87 mm and reap the benefits of less bore flex at high cylinder
pressures. Although that extra 43cc looks pretty attractive as it means an
extra 4 - 5 hp and a perhaps a second or three on a stage?.
Cheers
Feral Errol
----------
From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries
Date: Friday, May 12, 2000 3:44
Thrill Seekers
I have stripped the L18W down to short motor and head and here is what I
have:
Head: A87 peanut chamber 38mm port, 44mm intake 36mm exhaust. Cast marked
#65 and 1029.
Block: 85mm bore
Crank: haven't removed it yet to check if steel or cast (appears steel) but
it has A8740 and 33-0 stamped on it.
The engine sat in a four door 180B at the local wreckers for over 5 years
with a dirty old Nikki 2 barrel on it. The head has corrosion around the
water jackets but is quite repairable. Obviously the whole thing will be
fully rebuilt.
As I stated I plan to bore it to 88mm and use L16rods/Z22S pistons - Should
I bore it to 87mm to allow for a later rebuild just in case?
Brad HALLETT
Ipswich, Qld
----- Original Message -----
From: Terry & Heather
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, May 11, 2000 8:58 PM
Subject: Re: L18W enquiries
Brad,
They go very safely to 3.5" (88.8mm) so you could easily build yourself a
copy of the once popular Nismo 1889 cc screamer with a V912/A87 38 mm ports
and go have lots a fun. It would be nice also if you got the steel crank,
the early HC 9.5:1 SSS W engines had them. The 1889 cc engine has a CR
~10.5:1 with the stock head thickness of 4.25" so you have to fiddle with
the cam a bit to keep detonation in check (the 72 degree is good with
webers).
enjoy,
Terry
Brad HALLETT wrote:
Thrillseekers, Due to a bizarre twist of fate, a local auto wrecker has
given me a free complete L18W engine from a 610. I have only seen it at
night in the car so I have no idea what head is on it but it is a definite
W block. I have never had a W block before, as I have always been content
destroying nomal L18's. I therefore need to know what cylinder wall
thicknessesI am looking at, i.e. what can I 'safely' bore it to, and what
head will probably be on it. It will be standard as it is on a four door,
ll the plates match the stamps, and carb/exhaust are all standard. How hard
are the bores? Do they withstand outrageous stroke:rod ratios? Is it
better to fit an L20crank or just prep the L18 crank and make it rev? I
could wait until I pick it up and disassemble it, but where would the fun
be in that? ThanksBrad
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