Ryan,
Problems:
1) Finding an SR20
2) Sump is alloy (cannot mod), so cross-member must be reversed and custom
swaybar used (MadDat or SSS)
3) Sump fouls steering idler arm, so reversed idler arm must be used (get
from MadDat)
4) Strange top water outlet - generally need to make up different one
(depends on radiator)
5) Gearbox shifter hole needs to be moved back a lot (about 8 inches from
memory) an old hole fixed up
6) Need shorter tailshaft (no surprises there)
7) Need heavily customised gearbox cross-member (or scratch built - your
choice)
8) Custom/modified engine mounts - LHS easy, RHS bit harder
9) Must move battery (fouls inlet manifold)
10) May have trouble with inlet manifold fouling master cylinder if you are
running a booster - depends on M/Cyl
11) Need to run speed sender to speedo then to ECU if using OEM ECU else ECU
may get upset - although this can be overcome if you know what you are doing
Apart from that they almost bolt in!
Please email me direct if you want more info
Peter Liebig
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of Ryan Boylan
Sent: Friday, 2 June 2000 6:00
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Conversion
I have been trying to look for info on the SR20 conversion to the 1600.
Would you be able to scan it for me too. I was actually after any problems
that can be encountered as well if anyone else has any info, or is it that
"standard" now?
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