Dave,
I am yet to make some heats shields and duct cold air but I do plan to do
so. I believe that oil coolers are only necessary for a race car as using
them on the road would keep the oil too cold which is bad. I you you do
think you need this I would do it carefullt using and oil temp guage and an
oil thermostat. I am using an RB20DET ceramic, water cooled turbo on my
Z18ET (bolt onto manifold but diff exit flange) and have no probs at all.
When welding your turbo oil return to the sump keep it as high as possible
as the oil level is quite high at that point because of the lean of the
engine. It is difficult to say about turbo rebuilds especially considering
the prices quoted. I was quoted $800 to repair and rebuild my Z18 turbo
and even then no one could tell me the capacity and flow characteristics or
whether it would be good for further power developments. So I opted for
the RB20 turbo as its off a bigger motor, its water cooled its modern and
cost $400 a far cheaper option. Anyway if you use good oil and dont go
stupid with boost and always warm the car up and down you shouldn't have
any probs. Modern turbos are heaps reliable if treated right. I know a
guy with a mazda 626 turbo owned from new and he has not even rebuilt it
yet.
Regards,
Pete.
----------
> From: Dave Arundel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Z18ET people
> Date: Monday, 19 June 2000 21:07
>
> i thought it was an error message
> and the dats still not sorted yet
> do u run any cold air intake or oil coolers
> do u have much trouble with your turbo like oil lines bloking how often
will
> i have to change the seals and bearings?
>
>
> >From: "Peter and Trace" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: "Ozdat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Subject: Z18ET people
> >Date: Fri, 16 Jun 2000 18:18:28 +1000
> >
> >Does anyone know what the green LED on the factory computer
does/indicates?
> > Pete.
> >
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
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>
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