i was talking to this guy who used to be a mechanic for nissan years ago
and he used to work on the works stanza, he said he might be able to get the
homologation papers for the voilet, so you can use upto a 2.2L in PRC type
races?
does any one want/need these papers?
regards
Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: "RUSSCB" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, 29 June 2000 5:21
Subject: Re: Competition body prep. (long)
> I too would love to get hold of one of these comp manuals for the P510 if
> they exist. Let me know if the Stanza manual has any good info in it
> please.
>
> Thanks.
> Russ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "abrahamk" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 7:27 PM
> Subject: Re: Competition body prep. (long)
>
>
> > Andrew and others,
> > I've just had a very informative chat with 'Feral' Errol Smith and
> recommend
> > you seek counsel there.
> > Errol also buys and sells competition parts and accessories so is also
> worth
> > contacting if you are after some 'proper' comp. bits, i.e. not Hyundai
> Excel
> > body kits!
> >
> > To get started you should locate the factory comp. preparation manual. I
> > didn't even know that they existed for Datsuns, Errol has a copy of the
> > Stanza manual and homologation papers, I didn't ask about the P510
stuff.
> >
> > The Datsun comps. dept. went to great trouble to find out where the car
> > needs strengthening, and importantly, where it doesn't (to save
weight),
> > and how to improve the handling, traction, and power. They make this
> > information available so that privateers, people like you and I, (nb.
> > everybody stand up and salute, damn you) will win in a Datsun and bring
> > glory to the Datsun name.
> > This was a very effective form of advertising, at least in the good old
> days
> > where the best car could win without being handicapped vis. Mini Cooper,
> > Phase3 GTHO Falcon, Sierra Cosworth RS500. Why did we choose a Datsun -
> how
> > much was the decision based on reputation and how much of it was
> > disinterested engineering inquiry?
> >
> > There have been improvements and refinements since these cars first took
> to
> > the forests and roads, and we also have to realise that factory comp.
> > vehicles were only built to compete for one season, so enthusiasts
should
> > build their cars stronger and tougher.
> >
> > I am looking forward to getting a copy of the Stanza comp. manual and
will
> > tell you if it lives up to expectations.
> > Regards,
> > Nick.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Monday, June 26, 2000 10:44 AM
> > Subject: Re: Competition body prep. (long)
> >
> >
> > > Nick, I reckon these are good questions. Sorry I cant help,
> > > because I am after the same answers but for a street 1600!!!
> > > Can anyone help us??!
> > > TIA Andrew
> > >
> > > > List members, I have some questions regarding seam welding and
general
> > competition body-shell preparation.
> > > > I have located a reasonably good Stanza shell and have an L20B ready
> to
> > go in. Before it does I would like to seam weld and strengthen the body
> > shell to prepare it for the rigorous thrashing it is about to receive.
> > > > I have had a look at the very good Ford Escort site at
> > www.osella.com.au.
> > > >
> > > > 1. I would like to use an oxy-acetylene welder to do the seam
> welding -
> > I don't have access to a MIG. The application of heat is so much slower
> with
> > an oxy set than with an arc welder, will excessive annealing take
place? -
> I
> > am specially concerned about front strut towers and chassis rails.
> > > > In simpler language will my body shell be stiffer or softer after
seam
> > welding with an oxy set?
> > > >
> > > > 2. The general technique recommended by the Ford works rally
> department
> > in the 70's (see website above) was to seam weld 1/2 inch, then leave 1
> 1/2
> > inches, then weld 1/2 inch, etc.. Leaving gaps prevents cracks spreading
> and
> > I suppose the size of the gaps offsets any annealing or embrittlement.
> > > Any comments or suggestions?
> > > >
> > > > 3. I have inspected a Datsun 1600 rally car and noticed a long plate
> > reaching from the bulkhead to the front crossmember) welded onto the
> > outside of the driver's side chassis rail (i.e. inside the wheel well).
> This
> > plate was supposed to reinforce the steering box - I don't see how it
does
> > it,
> > > it could be there for another reason, any ideas? An angle bracket
inside
> > the car mounted from the steering box to the body shell / chassis rail
> would
> > be better.
> > > >
> > > > 4. Should there be gusset plates from the bulkhead to the chassis
> rails?
> > Again, see the Ford Escort site for details. However, the Datsun is
> designed
> > differently in this area, the bulkhead slopes away to the rear of the
car.
> > > >
> > > > 5. The front radius rod brackets take a fearsome hammering and could
> > probably be pulled out bolts-and-all from the front crossmember. I've
seen
> > it happen on a (rusty) 200B. How can this area be reinforced?
> > > >
> > > > 6. Are there any known weak points in a live-axle Datsun?
> > > >
> > > > Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Nick
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
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