If anyone is after a Z22 crank in the Brisbane area my mate has one going
cheap. I just got mine going again. The sound of a turbo is good. And I
didn't realise how much I missed the bark of twin 45s until last night.
Music to my ears!
Scott
-----Original Message-----
From: David Costello <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000 19:33
Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>if I was going to use the Z22 crank idea what block would I start with?
>
>CA20 or a jap L20 block?
>
>if I should use the L20B how do I tell the difference between a jap or aust
>block?
>
>Dave
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Heath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Wednesday, 9 August 2000 5:13
>Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>
>
>>Murray Coote did my last head, he no longer does them.
>>cost me $1300 to get done.
>>
>>use a Z22 crank, not the Z24
>>Z22 is a counter weight crank, the Z24 isn't
>>i know i guy with twin 45's and a Z22
>>making 163 rear wheel HP
>>he's chasing 48's, trying to get a bit more top end.
>>
>>Heath
>>
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 8:49
>>Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>
>>
>>>
>>> who in Brisbane would you recomend to do up a head to those specs?
>>> and what head would be best to use?
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46
>>> Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>>
>>>
>>> >Andrew
>>> >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together. My
>>> >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over the
>>> >years:
>>> >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve
>>> >44 mm inlet valves
>>> >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve
>>> >36mm exhaust valves
>>> >Polished exhaust port
>>> >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good rule
>>is
>>> >'cats tongue')
>>> >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall
flex,
>>> but
>>> >use forged flat tops.
>>> >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke
ratio
>>> for
>>> >easier revs.
>>> >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston
>>heights
>>> >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation.
>>> >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends
>>> >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg
>>Summerville
>>> >at Jindalee.
>>> >
>>> >regards
>>> >Brad
>>> >
>>> >----- Original Message -----
>>> >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM
>>> >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>> >
>>> >
>>> >> Andrew,
>>> >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To run
>>> 11:1
>>> >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making
>around
>>> >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet
>>> >valves.
>>> >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely
>>removed
>>> >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust
>valves.
>>> >The
>>> >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped &
>>> >swirl
>>> >> polished.
>>> >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not
>>only
>>> >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D
>>laid
>>> >on
>>> >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size.
>>> >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc.
>>You
>>> >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it
>smoother
>>> >and
>>> >> more grunty out of corners.
>>> >> My two bobs worth anyway.
>>> >> Cheers
>>> >> Feral Errol
>>> >> ----------
>>> >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>>> >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>> >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
>>> >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were
>>discussing
>>> >> freshening
>>> >> up the old donk.
>>> >> so
>>> >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly
>>reliably.
>>> >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported
>>head,
>>> >> larger
>>> >> valves, flat tops.
>>> >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and
>>> >> block(pistons?
>>> >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction
>>> >> without
>>> >> too many electronic gizmos.
>>> >> please advise and thanking in advance.
>>> >> andrew
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >>
>>> >
>>> >
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
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