David, Heaths suggestions sound good to me, The only hassle we have in Melbourne area is getting the Z22 bits! Cheers Feral Errol
---------- From: Heath <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap Date: Wednesday, August 09, 2000 5:02
Murray Coote did my last head, he no longer does them. cost me $1300 to get done.
use a Z22 crank, not the Z24 Z22 is a counter weight crank, the Z24 isn't i know i guy with twin 45's and a Z22 making 163 rear wheel HP he's chasing 48's, trying to get a bit more top end.
Heath
----- Original Message ----- From: "David Costello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 8:49 Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap
> > who in Brisbane would you recomend to do up a head to those specs? > and what head would be best to use? > > -----Original Message----- > From: Brad HALLETT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Tuesday, 8 August 2000 7:46 > Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap > > > >Andrew > >Bottom line is '200hp' and 'on tha cheap' don't easily go together. My > >advice is directly inline with Errols and is a proven formulae over the > >years: > >40 mm inlet ports with turning vanes behind valve > >44 mm inlet valves > >38mm exhaust ports with turning vanes behind valve > >36mm exhaust valves > >Polished exhaust port > >Ground inlet ports (not polished - air turbulance required so good rule is > >'cats tongue') > >Don't overbore the block too much to reduce high rev cylinder wall flex, > but > >use forged flat tops. > >Consider using high pin heights and long rods to assist rod:stroke ratio > for > >easier revs. > >Aim for 11 or 12:1 compression, i.e. match deck of block to piston heights > >and modify CR through combustion chamber manipulation. > >Use 45mm Webers and matchport manifold both ends > >Spend $$$ at reputable dyno shop. In Qld I would only use Greg Summerville > >at Jindalee. > > > >regards > >Brad > > > >----- Original Message ----- > >From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 7:13 AM > >Subject: Re: 200hp L20 on tha cheap > > > > > >> Andrew, > >> To make 200hp reliably, you will need the comp up around 11:1. To run > 11:1 > >> reliably you will need forgies. All the heads I have seen making around > >> 200hp on L series are using approx 40mm inlet ports with 44mm inlet > >valves. > >> Exhaust ports are taken out to the max with the humps completely removed > >> and a smooth radius on the upper port surface. Use 36mm exhaust valves. > >The > >> valves are usually one piece 214N S/Steel, stellite tipped, tuliped & > >swirl > >> polished. > >> Port profiles on the inlet side are the key to making the power. Not only > >> do you open the port sizes but shape the floor of the port into a D laid > >on > >> its flat. This gives the largest flow for the port size. > >> The next step would be to fit an injection system eg Wolf Motec etc. You > >> wont make much if any more at the top end, but it will make it smoother > >and > >> more grunty out of corners. > >> My two bobs worth anyway. > >> Cheers > >> Feral Errol > >> ---------- > >> From: Andrew Kubenk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> Subject: 200hp L20 on tha cheap > >> Date: Monday, August 07, 2000 10:51 > >> > >> > >> ive got a mate with a fairly tough L20 in a stanza and we were discussing > >> freshening > >> up the old donk. > >> so > >> i need a few suggestions on making about 200 flywheel hp fairly reliably. > >> we are starting with, 2x45 webers, datrally manifold, fairly ported head, > >> larger > >> valves, flat tops. > >> please advise as to how far the head (port, polish, valve size) and > >> block(pistons? > >> balancing etc) needs to go as well as possible upgrades to induction > >> without > >> too many electronic gizmos. > >> please advise and thanking in advance. > >> andrew > >> > >> > >> > > > > > >
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