Rick,
> When used in a newer 510 this corrects "A" arm geometry on a lowered
> car.
does this mean that to be of any benefit when lowering, the earlier
x member has to be in a "newer 510", or will benefit the earlier car
it came from also??
thanks andrew
Date sent: Thu, 24 Aug 2000 08:27:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rick White <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Send reply to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Trevor/69 crossmember answers
> Trevor.
> I checked my info before getting bact to you and yes the earlier 1600 did have the
>pivot point higher up than on the 71/72's crossmember.
> My info comes from book
> how to modify Datsun 510610 240z engines and chassis
> Page 190 and it says exactly.
> Front crossmember from 69 and earlier 510 mounts lower suspension arm about one inch
>higher than newer member.
> When used in a newer 510 this corrects "A" arm geometry on a lowered car.
> I hope this helps.
> bye for now.
> Rick White.
> --- "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > wrote:
> >Mick they are made for race use only.
> >Cheers
> >Feral Errol
> >
> >----------
> >From: Mick Ralph <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: Front suspension for racing
> >Date: Thursday, August 24, 2000 8:01
> >
> >How legal are they for the road?
> >cheers
> >mick
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Craig Harris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 8:30 PM
> >Subject: Re: Front suspension for racing
> >
> >
> >>
> >> Are
> >> "rod ends where the lower control arm joins the crossmember"
> >>
> >> like threaded rose joints? I would be interested to see who has done
> >these
> >> on a 510 and what they think about them. a mate has just done them on a
> >toyo
> >> and they look pretty trick
> >>
> >> any thoughts/experiences??
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> >From: "Pooley, Trevor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >> >To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> >Subject: Front suspension for racing
> >> >Date: Wed, 23 Aug 2000 16:18:40 +0930
> >> >
> >> >Unless you fork out $1600 for a set of 55DCO/SP Webers from DatRats (
> >> >drooooool ). I agree!
> >> >
> >> >Talking about datrats. I've just recieved a set of 30mm bump steer
> >spacers
> >> >from Datrats (one tenth the cost of the 55's). They look real good (nice
> >> >shinny alloy) and will restore some angle to my lower control arms after
> >> >the
> >> >lowering job I did last week before phillip Island. I had some minor
> >bump
> >> >steer there.
> >> >
> >> >This leads to my next question. There was some talk a little while back
> >> >about the location of the pivot point on the engine crossmember.
> >Apparently
> >> >the early model had these higher up than the latter models. Can anyone
> >> >confirm this? Also after looking at the pics of the busted cross member,
> >is
> >> >it worth modifying mine or just looking for a good early 1600
> >crossmember?
> >> >Does the distance between the two pivot points change as well or just
> >the
> >> >height?
> >> >
> >> >Other thing I want to do is make new adjustable lower control arms to
> >> >replace the datrally ones I am currently using. I would like to either
> >go
> >> >for a monoball arrangement (ie How to hotrod your datsun book) or rod
> >ends
> >> >where the lower control arm joins the crossmember. This would allow for
> >> >lots
> >> >of positive castor without stressing the pivot point. Does anyone know
> >of
> >a
> >> >cheap source for these parts.
> >> >
> >> >I am also looking into making a rear sway bay (ie How to hotrod your
> >datsun
> >> >book) but that might be asking a little to much too soon.
> >> >
> >> >Thanks
> >> >Trev
> >> >
> >>
> >> ________________________________________________________________________
> >> Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
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