As Errol says, you're not going to hurt a 510 frontend as they are so far
over engineered for a small car. To give you an idea a SLR 5000 has roughly
the same lower size ball joints, control arms and radius rods as a 510.
Until you go with coil over struts you can't hurt much as the spring hits
the tower before you get near the limits.
terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Errol Smith
Sent: Saturday, 7 October 2000 2:03 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: camber
Brad,
The change in angle is minimal as the arm is only lengthened 10 - 12mm
The thrust load varies with the sine of the strut body angle from vertical,
so small changes are ok and have little effect on side loads on the top
bearing.
Cheers
Feral Errol
----------
From: brad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: camber
Date: Saturday, October 07, 2000 12:45
i thought lethening the bottom arms too much
would put more stress on the top bearing
Brad
http://go.to/burnouts - The No. 1 Car Burnout Site
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
----- Original Message -----
From: "Errol Smith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, October 06, 2000 10:36 PM
Subject: Re: camber
> Nick,
> Well put
> White man speakum truth. Lower arms for major adjustment and upper mounts
> for fine tuning.
> Cheers,
> Feral Errol
>
> ----------
> From: abrahamk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: camber
> Date: Friday, October 06, 2000 9:06
>
> Pete,
> The angle that the wheel makes with the road when you look from in front
or
> behind the car is called "the CAMBER angle"
> If you want a car to have good cornering power, it is clear that you have
> to
> have the most amount of rubber on the road that you can.
> This is best achieved when the wheel is upright, i.e at 90 degrees to the
> road - a zero camber angle.
> The key here is when do you want the wheel to be upright?
> Because the Datto has MacPhearson Strut suspension the camber angle
changes
> when the car pitches and rolls.
> The idea is that you give the car static negative camber (tops of wheels
> closer to centreline of car than bottoms) so that when the car starts to
> roll in a turn the outside wheel camber angle goes back to approximately
> zero.
> So, when you need it most (middle of a corner) you have the front outside
> wheel at 90 degrees to the road, maximum grip - yeehah!
> There is one more subtlety, if you roll a cylinder it rolls in a straight
> line. If you roll a cone shape it rolls in a circle.
> If you increase the negative camber angle even more than what it takes to
> get the front outside wheel upright in a turn you find that you get even
> better cornering!
> This is because the front outside tyre squashes into a cone shape. F1
cars
> don't have any suspension movement but still run 3 degrees camber for
this
> reason.
> The only disadvantage of too much neg. is increased tyre wear on the
inner
> half of the tyre, and slightly decreased braking ability - and
acceleration
> on FWD cars.
> My old Alfasud had 3 degrees neg camber and used to get wheelspin going
up
> hills!
> But going down hills and on flat smooth roads the cornering limit was
> determined by the rears, the front wheels had that much grip...mmm.
> I recommend changing transverse arms to get more neg. camber rather than
> buying adjustable strut tops or slotting the holes.
> Regards,
> Nick
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Lars Belarken <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Saturday, October 07, 2000 3:22 AM
> Subject: camber
>
>
> > Is adding negative camber a good idea? how is it done and is it
> expensive??
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Pete Kitchen.
> >
_________________________________________________________________________
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http://www.hotmail.com.
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> >
>
>
>
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