This info is pretty right, that's what used to be done to get negative
camber on the cheap. Bending the bottom of the strut tube by heating and
compressing on the outer side does reduce reliability (weaken it), but I've
know it to be done even on rally cars. A small vertical gusset was often
welded over the compression ripples to add back strength. Limit of
compression is when the tyre hits the strut tube, but dont go this far,
leave at least 15mm gap (standard offset).
----- Original Message -----
From: "Duncan Shillito" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, 22 November 2000 20:38 PM
Subject: negative camber
> dear list,
>
> i was talking to my new boss at work today, and when the car subject came
> up, he said he used to curcuit race a 510 in the mid 80's. it had a turbo
> Z22 with an L18 (A87) head with the works. he said it ran 11 sec 1/4
miles,
> (he mentioned something about a national record??)
>
> anyway he was talking of ways to achieve fast lap times, even with
standard
> engines and suspension. apart from the common set-up, he said that if you
> slot the holes about 1 cm on the strut towers, you can achieve 5-10 deg
> negative camber. as well as this, he said that if you bend the base of the
> strut slightly on the compression side, you also gained another 5 deg
> negative camber and the little 510 would turn on a dime!!!
>
> i was just wondering if anybody has done these simple improvements and the
> results achieved.
>
> if anybody wants, i'll get some exact details.
>
> dunc.
>
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