Ryan,
It's cause you cane the crap out of your car, that's why! (If that evening
was anything to go by :)
Also remember your stereo would weigh quite a lot, which wouldn't help at
all
- Tom
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of 1600 BoY
Sent: Monday, 26 March 2001 10:46 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
u said u should get 30plus mpg with sus. i got a l20b, mild cam, and i dont
know if its the way i drive it(hard) - or not but im getting about 20mpg...
its got a 240k carby on it.
any suggestions why it would be so low?
thanks,
ryan
>From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:15:37 +1000
>
>I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
>dont
>have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump. They dont come on
>really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock carby
>set up.
>You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance that
>will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
>
>
> > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great induction
>noise and
> > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't change
>much at
> > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
> >
> > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
> >
> > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
>1981
>200B
> > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came out
>in
> > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need to
>know.
> > >
> > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
>different
> > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also get
>the
> > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my friend
>has
> > > about it...he says it's extreme.
> > >
> > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got a
>ye
>olde
> > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
>fuel
>(you
> > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
> > >
> > > Paul
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >
> > > > G'day all,
> > > >
> > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy with
>the
> > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and change
>of
> > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull and
> > > Trading
> > > > post.
> > > >
> > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). Desirable
>features
> > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, lowish
>mileage.
> > > > cost 2nd hand $100
> > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous clutch,
>fan
>does
> > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger clutch,
>very
> > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
>horrible
> > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1 cost ~$30
> > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> > > >
> > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > > > Regards,
> > > > Nick
> > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > > > Subject: Newbie
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > Hello all on the list!
> > > > >
> > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
>years,
> > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life. I
>could
>get
> > > it
> > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
>that
> > > > > done. I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
>suggested
> > > an
> > > > > L20B motor. This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
>swap
>and
> > > > I'm
> > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
>with
>a
> > > > > little more urge than normal. However, anything that I *can* get
>out of
> > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to spend
>heaps
> > > > and
> > > > > gain little).
> > > > >
> > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B? What
>can
> > > be
> > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a little
>more
> > > > power,
> > > > > without going overboard? By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
>interested
>in
> > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster. This is my daily driver,
>and
> > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > > > >
> > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; I
>can't
> > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra (including
> > > > > polishing etc). A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
>just
> > > don't
> > > > > know what yet.
> > > > >
> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > > > >
> > > > > Brian K.
> > > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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