I get 12.8 L/100kms around town and 9.8L/100kms on the highway. that is
with a L20B with 32/36 DGV Webber with a warm cam.
At 12:07 AM 28/03/2001 +0930, you wrote:
>Ryan,
>
>I got 13.7 litres/100km (which is 19.2mpg if i worked it out correctly) with
>the broken throttle position sensor (I think something in the truck mangled
>it or something) causing it to run rich (it idled at about 2200rpm and blew
>lots of black smoke). That's about half flogging it and half driving in
>traffic at whatever the going pace is. I never got the chance to fix the
>TPS before it got written off I'm sorry to say, so I don't have any other
>numbers.
>
>- Tom
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of 1600 BoY
>Sent: Tuesday, 27 March 2001 11:36 PM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
>
>
>
>well yeh i kane the crap outa it. according to my principal i reach speeds
>well over 80kph between the 2 speedumps at our skool that are about 40mtrs
>apart. wanker. if i did get it to 80 the car would get hammered come the
>speed hump.
>
>but yeh we did a milage consuption test and i had to drive it like an old
>fart (which sucked ass) and it only got 26mpg driving it like miss daisy on
>a sunday. so i dont get it.. if a 15 second car is getting 30mpg.
>ohwell. tom what consuption approx u think u would get with the Z20e? did u
>test it?
>
>Ryan.
>
> >From: "Denzil Palmer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
> >Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 20:46:14 +1200
> >
> >Yes you WILL get 30+ mpg average with SU's and a torquer cam on an L20B.
> >
> >On my car I averaged 31mpg over 30,000 miles driving in general like a
> >controlled maniac, if that makes sense. On a high 15 second car. And yes
> >that was adjusting periodically for odometer error(tyre wear is actually
> >quite noticeable in this respect!).
> >
> >Denzil Palmer
> >
> >----------
> > >From: "Tom Richardson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >Subject: RE: L20B mods. + mpg
> > >Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2001 1:52 AM
> > >
> >
> > > Ryan,
> > >
> > > It's cause you cane the crap out of your car, that's why! (If that
> >evening
> > > was anything to go by :)
> > > Also remember your stereo would weigh quite a lot, which wouldn't help
> >at
> > > all
> > >
> > > - Tom
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of 1600 BoY
> > > Sent: Monday, 26 March 2001 10:46 PM
> > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods. + mpg
> > >
> > >
> > > u said u should get 30plus mpg with sus. i got a l20b, mild cam, and i
> >dont
> > > know if its the way i drive it(hard) - or not but im getting about
> >20mpg...
> > > its got a 240k carby on it.
> > >
> > > any suggestions why it would be so low?
> > >
> > > thanks,
> > > ryan
> > >
> > >
> > >>From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >>Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2001 22:15:37 +1000
> > >>
> > >>I agree, SU's are the carbs for road performance and fuel economy, they
> > >>dont
> > >>have inbuilt power jets primed with an accelerator pump. They dont come
> >on
> > >>really hard but they let an engine breathe a lot better than a stock
> >carby
> > >>set up.
> > >>You should easily get 9 litres/100Kms or 30 plus MPG. with performance
> >that
> > >>will surprise your V8 Commodore punters.
> > >>
> > >>----- Original Message -----
> > >>From: "Michael Cassidy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >>Sent: Saturday, 24 March 2001 23:58 PM
> > >>Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> > I've used Su's before, good carbs, better performance, Great
> >induction
> > >>noise and
> > >> > they DONT use alot of petrol, Actually i think the economy didn't
> >change
> > >>much at
> > >> > all with the change to su's... Trust me give em a go.
> > >> >
> > >> > "Paul W. J. Stanley" wrote:
> > >> >
> > >> > > Thanks for the info Ken. I'm thinking of adding a few 'bits' to my
> > >>1981
> > >>200B
> > >> > > L20B. Does anyone know the difference between the L20Bs that came
> >out
> > >>in
> > >> > > various Datsuns? I guess the 'desirable features' is all you need
> >to
> > >>know.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I can get some extractors and the electronic ignition. Is there a
> > >>different
> > >> > > water pump for the auto? My motor is from an automatic. I can also
> >get
> > >>the
> > >> > > clutch and flywheel, and a 'big' cam. That's the only info my
> >friend
> > >>has
> > >> > > about it...he says it's extreme.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > I wouldn't mind DIY port work too...might look into that. I've got
> >a
> > >>ye
> > >>olde
> > >> > > carby...I dont think I'll get twin SUs because I'm a cheapskate on
> > >>fuel
> > >>(you
> > >> > > have to use PULP with 9.5:1 don't you?)
> > >> > >
> > >> > > Paul
> > >> > >
> > >> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > > From: Ken Abraham <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >> > > Sent: Saturday, March 24, 2001 3:47 PM
> > >> > > Subject: Re: L20B mods.
> > >> > >
> > >> > > > G'day all,
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > Some things to consider for a mild L20B
> > >> > > > I have done these things to my motor and am reasonably happy with
> > >>the
> > >> > > > results, there is a significant increase in performance and
> >change
> > >>of
> > >> > > > 'character' compared to stock L20B.
> > >> > > > I have included approximate prices if you get parts from U-Pull
> >and
> > >> > > Trading
> > >> > > > post.
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > 1. Start with S2 Bluebird Motor (check for bore wear!). Desirable
> > >>features
> > >> > > > include, big valves, 264degree SSS camshaft, strong crank, lowish
> > >>mileage.
> > >> > > > cost 2nd hand $100
> > >> > > > 2. Electronic Ignition (From some Bluebirds) cost $50
> > >> > > > 3. Automatic transmission water pump and fan (i.e viscous clutch,
> > >>fan
> > >>does
> > >> > > > not spin faster than 2500 Rpm) cost $25
> > >> > > > 4. 6 cylinder flywheel and clutch (1 kilo lighter, bigger clutch,
> > >>very
> > >> > > > noticable performance boost in 1st gear) ;) cost $40
> > >> > > > 5. Extractors. cost $ 50 - $100
> > >> > > > 6. Twin SU (Genuine) carburettors on SSS manifold. cost ~$150
> > >> > > > 7. Port work. Open inlets to 1.5 inches for SSS manifold, modify
> > >>horrible
> > >> > > > factory exaust port. cost ~$10 for bits and pieces needed to DIY
> > >> > > > 8. Shave head ~1mm to increase compression to about 9.5:1 cost
> >~$30
> > >> > > > 9. Gasket kit and sundries cost ~$150
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > All up about $600 - less if you shop around and buy wisely.
> > >> > > > Regards,
> > >> > > > Nick
> > >> > > > 1978 Datsun Stanza
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > >> > > > From: Brian K. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >> > > > To: Thudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > >> > > > Sent: Friday, 23 March 2001 3:06 PM
> > >> > > > Subject: Newbie
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > > > > Hello all on the list!
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > > I have an old faithful 180B which has served me well for many
> > >>years,
> > >> > > > > however the engine is now approaching the end of its life. I
> > >>could
> > >>get
> > >> > > it
> > >> > > > > rebuilt, but for not much more I can get a new engine and have
> > >>that
> > >> > > > > done. I asked one workshop on the recommended option, and he
> > >>suggested
> > >> > > an
> > >> > > > > L20B motor. This seems like a good option to me; it's an easy
> > >>swap
> > >>and
> > >> > > > I'm
> > >> > > > > not trying to make a performance car out of it, just something
> > >>with
> > >>a
> > >> > > > > little more urge than normal. However, anything that I *can*
> >get
> > >>out of
> > >> > > > > it, I *will* (within a fairly tight budget; I don't want to
> >spend
> > >>heaps
> > >> > > > and
> > >> > > > > gain little).
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > > So what advice can anyone give on an L20B swap into an 180B?
> >What
> > >>can
> > >> > > be
> > >> > > > > done to the engine during a rebuild that would extract a little
> > >>more
> > >> > > > power,
> > >> > > > > without going overboard? By 'overboard', I mean I'm not
> > >>interested
> > >>in
> > >> > > > > building some 200HP race-ready monster. This is my daily
> >driver,
> > >>and
> > >> > > > > spends most of its time doing a highway commute.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > > The workshop suggested putting a different head on the motor; I
> > >>can't
> > >> > > > > remember which one but he said it'd be about $400 extra
> >(including
> > >> > > > > polishing etc). A new exhaust system will definitely go on, I
> > >>just
> > >> > > don't
> > >> > > > > know what yet.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > > Thanks in advance,
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > > > Brian K.
> > >> > > > >
> > >> > > >
> > >> > >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >_________________________________________________________________________
> > > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at
> >http://www.hotmail.com.
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>_________________________________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at http://www.hotmail.com.
>
>
==============
Adam Rowe
Townsville, QLD
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