Should I get the head tested while it is still in the car? CO2 test out the radiator
is it?
I might just drop the spare L20B in. It's just been rebuilt recently, but I didn't
really want to drop it in because it's got an
"extreme" cam in it, which was the best description the previous owner could
offer...it's the biggest you can go he
reckons and is very thirsty. It also has a L18 head on it which I guess bumps the
compression up a bit...that would
probably be around 9.5:1 would it?
I will see how thirsty it is with the single downdraft carb anyway. Then I can play
with the head later.
26/05/01 10:53:35 PM, "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>To do a head service yourself you need to get the surface machined and crack
>tested. I'd suggest you get hold of a manual for any L4 engine and have a
>read and see if you've got the skills to do it. A mate whose done it before
>is a good way to learn.
>
>I prefer "monotorque" head gaskets as I've never blown one yet and I've
>replaced the head gasket on some marginally flat heads too. They are
>available at Repco, good old aussie made by ACL in Brisbane or Tassie.
>
>They're web catalogue is here: (can be dodgy sometimes)
>
>http://www.acl.com.au/web/aclwebsite.nsf/pg_cust_catalog?OpenPage
>
>
>The valve clearances should be checked every 10,000 or so, but most of us
>prolly check them closer to 20,000 km with the major service.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pig
>Sent: Saturday, 26 May 2001 10:10
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: RE: Rough motor
>
>
>Yes I understand Terry. I think the head gasket is made of that gasket in a
>tube stuff...what brand/type should I get if
>I'm going to fix it myself?
>I cant see any bubbles in the radiator but maybe I'm not looking hard
>enough. It does seem as though there is water in
>the cylinders...
>I've been meaning to check the valve clearances too...the 180B manual says
>to check them every 10,000 kms so
>probably the same for the 200B.
>
>26/05/01 12:18:28 AM, "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>>Pig?
>>
>>You have classic symptoms of a leaking head gasket, what happens is water
>>seeps into a cylinder under pressure when the engine is cooling down and it
>>runs rough next time you start. Do a compression test, if you're loosing
>>water then do a leak down or these days most radiator shops have a CO
>>sniffer that will tell you if you're head gasket is leaking/blown. The old
>>fashion way is to check for bubbles in the radiator, not completely
>>conclusive but nearly always right.
>>
>>Other things to check are the usual stuff - plugs & leads, and valve
>>clearances etc
>>
>>regards
>>Terry
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pig
>>Sent: Thursday, 24 May 2001 10:39
>>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>Subject: Rough motor
>>
>>
>>My L20B seems to run rough when it's cold. Sounds like a cylinder is not
>>firing....comes good after it warms up a bit. Just
>>wondering what to do to get it smooth. I've got the choke working and I set
>>the idle mixture when it's warm. Should I
>>check compression? Or maybe try another carby on it?
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
P.W.J. Stanley (aka Pig, Pop)
www.pwjstanley.com
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