Trev,
Angled the way yours are is not going to cause a control arm failure like
those in the picture, but if you didn't change your stabiliser bar when you
fitted the new control arms you would have thought it not be as effective as
you would have liked. The original bar would behave like it wasn't stiff
enough and so you go for a bigger one. If you have a look at any of the
reasonable quality racing bars you see a small slotted fitting that can be
adjusted to compensate the static loading on the bar. Typically you see this
setup in a mega lowered sports sedan and probably most other classes if they
will let you have a look.
If anyone has their stabiliser mounting bolts more than 10 degrees off
centre inwards there will be some major stresses being applied to the
control arms and tie rods and if you run off line and just tap a curb the
damage caused will amaze you for a small bump. Some ppl actually fit shorter
mounts to compensate for the lack of suspension travel with cut springs,
I've not seen any bad things happen with this but I'm sure that the overall
handling would be far superior with lowered spring perches or coil overs
although it then gets down to dollars.
I think that the 1600 in the picture with the cut springs also had the long
struts which was the bad thing. He would have been much better off using
1.5" shorter struts and leaving the 1.5" on the spring - this is more likely
to be how we do it in Aus as we have an abundant supply of 10" struts so we
aren't likely to see this sort of dangerous modification here.
regards
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Pooley, Trevor
Sent: Friday, 22 June 2001 11:55
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: Swaybar mount and lower arm
Terry,
Ouch! I also noticed the tyre rub marks on the swaybar. See how the sway bar
mount is on an angle due to the angle of the lower control arm!
My sway bar mount angles the other way (top towards the body) due to the
amount I have extended the Datrally lower control arms I am running. I have
them at full (safe) extension. Should I move the bottom mount of the sway
bar link (slot or new hole) towards the crossmember? If I do this how will
it affect roll stiffess (reduce it)? Alternatively get a new sway bar. Most
likely custom? Or am I worrying needlessly that I have a potential problem
because my swaybar link is not vertical?
Thanks
Trev
-----Original Message-----
From: Terry Rudd [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, 20 June 2001 21:12
To: Ozdat
Subject: Swaybar mount and lower arm
This picture was posted on the Dimes US list an inquired as to what may have
caused the suspension failure. There is a lesson for the younger folk here
who want to lower a 1600 the wrong way i.e. chopping springs instead of
moving the spring perch. I thought it worth a look here for the experience.
This 1600 is mega low with cut springs, so low the sway bar has been acting
like a spring, a bit like an early 1000 or Corolla xmember.
Notice the cracks in the lower control arm - I think the sway bar links gave
way first and did him a favour. These are stock length which is another
problem on a lowered car that's often overlooked.
http://www.nowroc.com/Swaybar/Frameset.htm
regards
Terry
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