>
>The timing marks on the cam chain are only used for lining up the chain when
>you have the timing cover off eg total strip down or fitting a new chain. I
>presume you intend to chock the t/c adjuster so the main thing is to have
>the engine a TDC compression #1 which the cam lobes on #1 will be both
>pointing up (actually about 10 & 2 o'clock).
>
>Note which position the cam dowel is located in the timing wheel (i.e. 1, 2
>or 3). With an indelible pen or sharp object, mark the link that is opposite
>the corresponding link marker (dimple, also numbered 1, 2 or 3) on the outer
>side of the wheel.
>
>It's also a good idea to check the chain for stretch and also the condition
>of the adjuster boot and guides while you're at it. With the engine at TDC
>you check to see that the V notch on the wheel lines up with the marker on
>the thrust plate, your Gregory's shows you how this is done. If the V on the
>wheel is to the right of the notch on the thrust plate (cam timing retarded)
>then you should put the timing wheel back on the cam dowel at one number
>higher than what it come out and turn the engine 720 degrees by hand and
>check it again (important on any OHC engine) - except if course if it's
>already on #3, then you're up for a new chain.
>
>It sounds like you've not done this before, everything else is fairly
not on a OHC
>straight forward but pay particular attention to the method of adjusting the
>valve clearances. The correct method on a L engine is one valve at a time
>with the lobe pointing straight up and you measure between the cam and the
>heel of the lobe. You can adjust the clearances between the lash pad and the
>valve but the specification is not what's quoted in the manuals i.e. 8 in &
>10 ex cold. Rotate the engine until the next lobe is pointing up adjust
>clearance and so on.
>
>regards
>Terry
>
Ok thanks for the info  I'll study it 


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