There is no ware on any thing the engine has only done 300 K/M since a
rebuild so nothing is worn,  there is water in the oil and oil in the water
it is using water. the comprssion is down in one cylender so I think it is
safe to say it is blown what do you say?

chris w
> hi,   have you done a wet and dry test? for a wet test , just put a
> oil container cap ful of oil in the cylinder and give it a nother
> reading.
> the variance in the readings  seem ok to me, i have had cylinders with
> about 40  difference, and  every thing ran fine, no broken head gasket.
>
> that  variance could be ,  slightly worn rings,  maybe it needs a valve
> grind etc....   USUALLY, if it is blown , it blows between two
> cylinders, you will have a high,low,low,high reading like that..
>
>  i`ll bet you 20 dollars  the head gasket is not blown.
> its not thaoften that you`wll get all cylinders reading EXACTLY  the
> same.
>
> mark k
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2002 2:31 PM
> Subject: Re: worked L20B running hot
>
>
>> Yep,
>>
>> I have done a Compression test 1.200 2.180 3.200 4.196 so I think it
>> is safe to say she's blown.  Well what radiator can I use I read to
>> use a n13 pulsar radiator but the in-outlets are on the wrong sides.
>> There must be
> a
>> bigger radiator I can use with out too many modifications.
>>
>> Chris W
>> >
>> > A couple of points.
>> > When you first fill a radiator from scratch you have to allow the
>> > system to bleed all of the air out from heater, bypasses etc. It
>> > doesn't happen until the thermostat opens and the water level in the
>> > radiator can drop substantially as it replaces the trapped air -
>> > just saying.
>> >
>> > I have my doubts about using a Galant 1600 radiator - the minimum
>> > capacity for a 200B would need to be 9-10 litres, for a hot one? I
>> > think a stock 1600 radiator capacity is 7.5 litres and they can get
>> > stretched by a 200B.
>> >
>> > I'd do the usual blown head gasket tests as suggested all the same.
>> >
>> > regadrs
>> > Terry
>> >
>> >> Chris .
>> >> Sounds like the head gasket is blown if there is no water in the
>> >> radiator. Maybee it also could be the radiatior cap isn't saling
>> >> itself and the water is siphoning out all by itself. Later Rick.
>> >>
>> >> --- "Chris Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> >> >Hi,
>> >> >   I finaly got my worked L20B in to my 1600 after my fan wrote
>> >> >   off one
>> >> >radiator, then next one was blocked, then i found it would cost
>> >> >$260 (trade) to recore the blocked one it had the cancer as well.
>> >> >Then i could not find one to fit but then found a chrysler galant
>> >> >($60) one was almost perfect just had to move the angle of the
>> >> >bottom outlet which cost me $20 so i thought $80 was better then
>> >> >$260.  Great I'm driving again so it is fine for a while then it
>> >> >is overheating I check the radiator no water WTF? I have only
>> >> >filled it up half an hour a ago.  I wait for it to cool down then
>> >> >fill it back up then driving again temp it about half way but i
>> >> >was told it would run hot anyway.  It is fine for an hour then the
>> >> >temp starts to creeap up again so I stop and look then open the
>> >> >radiator after a while and it is steaming and boiling and carrying
>> >> >on ?
>> >> >
>> >> >any ideas the engine is like 300Ks old.
>> >> >
>> >> >Could it just be that the radiator is not big enough?
>> >> >
>> >> >regards
>> >> >
>> >> >Chris W
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >> _____________________________________________________________ Get
>> >> Your free Ozdat Email Account
>> >> ---> http://www.ozdat.com
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>



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