Yeah me old man has one that he used on his earth moving equip was about 200
odd pound per Head bolt : )  was good for working up a sweat 
Ryan


> -----Original Message-----
> From: Terry Rudd [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Wednesday, 5 June 2002 12:53 am
> To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject:      RE: Wheel bearings.
> 
> Adam,
> 
> Good question. It's a bit tricky - back in my workshop days at Lennocks we
> actually used a 3 foot breaker bar over the biggest mother of a tension
> wrench I've ever seen that went up the 250 lbs/ft or there abouts and I
> think it was provided for these nuts only, as I never saw anyone use it
> for
> anything else. The average automotive tension wrench for heads etc only
> goes
> up to ~100 lbs/ft. In the real world, like my garage at home I still use a
> 3
> foot breaker bar with a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket and tighten them up
> as
> much as I can without breaking something, a 3 foot piece of water pipe
> bends
> like a banana though - you use the weight of the car i.e. wheels on the
> ground (when the car is just about off the ground, they've got to be just
> about tight enough) and I've never had premature bearing wear or ever had
> one come loose. Getting them undone is fun too, especially if they've
> never
> been off - two of us pushing down on a breaker bar couldn't get one of
> those
> damn nuts to budge on a 180B once so we heated it up a bit and that did
> the
> trick.
> 
> regards
> Terry
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Adam Jackson
> Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 11:15 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> 
> 
> Terry,
> 
> How did you torque the lock nut to 240 ft/lbs? I've a rattler that could
> tighten it up that tight, but no idea if it is actually tight enough??
> Should i take it to a workshop just for the tightening? Or just put the
> rattler on it then bend over the tops of the lock nuts?
> 
> cheers,
> Adam
> 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Terry Rudd
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 11:03 PM
> Subject: RE: Wheel bearings.
> 
> 
> Cam,
> 
> That's it in one.
> 
> Mark,
> If you look closely at those little tubes that have a letter stamped on
> them
> eg A, B, or C and may be higher but I don't recall seeing higher than C.
> You
> can actually have a different stamp on the left to the right so be very
> careful and note which is where when you pull them apart. We used to
> permanently mark the axle flange so we never got the spacers mixed up and
> spares were identifiable for later on as the tubes actually belong to the
> axle and not the housing.
> 
> The bearings press onto the axle just like a live axle - easy stuff with a
> press, nigh impossible without. Make sure the housing is absolutely as
> clean
> as a whistle and then drift the axle into place until you can fit the half
> shaft flange and the lock nut that gets torqued to 240 ft/lbs (33 kg/mtr).
> 
> regards
> Terry
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of CM510
> Sent: Tuesday, 4 June 2002 10:45 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: Wheel bearings.
> 
> 
> Mate, you might be under-rating that 'bit of tube' , I think they are
> graded
> in thousands of an inch to get correct bearing crush when you tighten that
> stub axle.  :)
> 
> No doubt TR or Feral Errol will know more.
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Cam
> CM510
> www.sprite.com.au/cm510
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mark Alford
> To: Ozdat discussion list
> Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 10:38
> Subject: Wheel bearings.
> 
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Anyone know the best way to get new rear wheels bearings in without
> damaging
> them?
> 
> Also, should there be anything between the wheel bearings? Mine has a
> piece
> of tube between them, but I can't see what the purpose of it is.
> 
> Mark.
> 
> 
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