Yeah one of the cams does turn a little when you release the old belt.. I don’t have a book but I just turned it forward when I fitted the new belt and once the tensioner is released again it stays there no worries... If someone has the book can they let me know if this is wrong/bad or okay?? My timing is set on 15 degrees, I might back it off a bit and see if it makes a difference to the pops and farts.. Thanks.. Mark
-----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Heath Sent: Wednesday, February 23, 2005 12:00 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem yerr terry ican't remember if it was inlet or ex, but one cam turns a little once released, i have the manual in the garage, i didn't think you had to release lifters?. i'll look tomorrow maybe i should back mine timing off? my used to pop under no load reving to 2000rpm and backing off when car was at running temp, i'll have to check with this new chip if it still does it, i have my ignition set at what the manual says, but they run 99ron in japan, do we have to back off the timing from what the manual says? i think it was 12 or 15, i check tomorrow heath ----- Original Message ----- From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Sent: Tuesday, 22 February 2005 8:22 Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > Mark, > > Popping & farting can be lean as well, also ignition timing advanced to far, > also unfortunately it can indicate inlet valve timing retarded or exhaust > valve timing advanced - did you have any trouble setting up the cam belt > when reassembling the engine. I've never rebuilt a CA18 but ppl tell me it's > the same as the RB30 and they can fight you when changing the cam timing > belt. Does the CA18 have to release a certain sequence of lifters like the > RB engine, if so then I hope you did it by the book. (excuse my ignorance if > this doesn't apply to the CA18) > > Regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark F > Sent: Sunday, 20 February 2005 10:39 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > > > I am getting a new Nissan thermostat this Wednesday so it wont be running > for too long without a thermostat.. As for the vanes on the water pump I > have had it off before and the fins etc all seemed to look normal.. What do > you mean by vanes?? I don't think the water jackets could be clogged up as I > had the head off not long ago and they looked fine.. I am running a fairly > rich mixture courtesy of the standard computer. It seems to pop and fart a > fair bit on deceleration which is fairly normal apparently due to how rich > it is.. Does this help?? > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brad Hallett > Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2005 10:19 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > > Don't run it for too long without a thermostat - cooler water straight into > number 1 will cause it to wear rapidly and you will kick yourself later. > > > I have come into this thread late so forgive me if I cover old territory > - > Have you checked the vanes on the water pump and are you sure the water > jackets aren't restricted by built up shit from a rebuild etc, also what > about your mixture - are you lean? > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark F > Sent: Sunday, 20 February 2005 3:40 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > > The saga continues.. > I got my radiator modified so that the inlet and outlet are on opposite > tanks and put it back into the car.. Again the temp still sits at 90 > degrees. It used to creep up to 100 but this isn't so bad anymore.. I then > thought I would try a standard 1600 radiator with my old 11" thermo on it. I > figured if this kept the temp at around 82-85 degrees then it would just > prove my alloy radiator is a piece of shit.. No such luck, the temp still > sat on 90 and was more keen to move up towards 100 than it was originally. > The good news is I don't seem to be losing water anymore, I think it might > have just been a problem with the old design of the radiator.. Last night I > put the alloy rad back in and took out the thermostat. Apart from taking a > while to heat up things are a lot nicer. The temp will eventually creep up > to around 80 but then I can turn the fan on and the temp drops back to 70.. > With the fan constantly on it generally stays on 70 degrees. I plan to buy a > genuine Nissan thermostat and see if the temp can stay cooler than 90. I > bloody hope so because I am running out of ideas! Is it strange that without > a thermostat the temp can still get up to 80?? I thought it would stay > cooler than that but hopefully this is normal.. > Thanks, > Mark > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Terry Rudd > Sent: Saturday, February 19, 2005 6:56 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > > Mark, > > At this time of year you could take the thermostat out for a week or so and > see what happens. To lose 1/4 radiator over a period of time would generally > not have much to do with the thermostat - mostly they fail to attain their > set temperature any way, rarely do they jam in the shut position. > > If you radiator checks out then I suspect you are losing coolant into a > combustion chamber as that amount of loss would be very evident if it was > external. If you suspect that this is the case, you could throw a can of > Goss Chemiweld into it - that stuff will seal up fairly bad cracks in an > alloy head like new. Even if an engine runs hot due to a failing component > eg radiator, water pump etc, unless there is excessive pressure i.e. >15 psi > and the cap cracks and water dumps into the recovery bottle, then the water > should stay in the system and at least most of it return from the recovery > bottle on the cool down cycle. > > Regards, > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark F > Sent: Thursday, 17 February 2005 11:39 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: RE: CA18det cooling problem > > > The thermostat isn't a Nissan item, but I have tried 2 different 82 degree > thermostat now and I still get these symptoms... > - the engine warms up from 0 to 90 degrees very quickly.. In other cars I > have had they haven't warmed up as quick as this one.. > - Once it reaches 90, it will never see below 90 degrees.. If I sit at the > lights it will start to creep up towards 100, but once I start driving again > it will come back down to 90. > - I am losing water.. The same amount each time. It never drops down below a > particular level, but the amount lost is fairly significant - about 1/4 of > the radiator.. > - The cooling system never seems to build up much pressure. The overflow > water is still as fresh as when I put it in there. No coolant has mixed in > with it because there is never enough pressure in the system to make the cap > let any water out.. > > My radiator was a custom made two row alloy one, but the way the inlet and > outlet were positioned looked like it wouldn't help with efficiency because > the top inlet was about 10 rows down from the top of the core and a baffle > plate between the inlet and outlet was a late addition by the guy that built > it so I have my doubts whether it is stopping the water from going straight > down to the outlet and bypassing the core... Tomorrow I am getting my top > outlet moved to the opposite end tank and the baffle taken out so I think > this should rule out the radiator as a problem after I get it back. I also > have to get the thermostat housing modified to point across the front of the > engine towards the other end tank.. I will also look at getting a bigger > thermofan which will cover the whole radiator.. My current fan is a good > quality one but only 11".. > > If I still am having problems once it is all back together again then I will > really be looking for some ideas on what could be wrong... Thanks for all > the help and most importantly - wish me luck! Cheers, Mark > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Heath > Sent: Thursday, February 17, 2005 5:40 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem > > is the thermostat geniune nissan? > mine came over from japan with a 88deg > i put in a 82deg out of the CA16 pulsar because i used the different thermo > outlet as well, i run a cross flow style radiator (not same side, as > standard) > the radiator guy next door said only use geniune thermostat's as the tridon > and others are shit! u should see my old EA it's got a 93deg thermo as > standard you should see the temp go up and down as the thermostat opens and > closes > > have you had the radiator cleaned out, properly with a tank off and they > push blades through the fins. to clean them. when the thermo opens on my CA > the top hose gets quite hard. and i notice that the temp slowly drops. > > heath > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Sent: Tuesday, 15 February 2005 7:13 > Subject: Re: CA18det cooling problem > > > > Thanks for the ideas guys.. > > I had a theory that maybe my headgasket is leaking water into one of > the > cylinders > > because it would maybe explain why the water always falls to about the > level of the top > > hose.. Is there any way to check this?? I am getting a fair bit of > black > watery stuff out > > of the exhaust but not all the time which is strange.. > > I am fairly sure my water pump is operating fine as when you rev the > motor > you can > > see the coolant flowing out of the fins inside the radiator.. The > > thermostat i have reads 82 degrees on it so i'm assuming it is > right. > > The motor runs well up to about 4500 rpm where it starts to misfire. I > think that is just > > my dirty plugs though.. > > I have checked the spark plugs before and 3 and 4 seem to be a lot > blacker > then 1 and > > 2, but i would have assumed water in there would make them a rusty > type > color.. > > > > Any more help would be great.. Is it safe to drive around??? Thanks, > > Mark > > > > > > > > > > > Errol Smith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > > Firstly I assume you have the correct thermostat for the engine and > it > > > is in working order. Check you dont have an alaskan winter rated 90C > > > thermostat. > > > > > > The following cooling system test is suitable for all engines. > > > > > > On the inlet side for coolant flow back into the block/head, fit the > > > cap end of a 1.25 or 2 litre coke bottle into the hose on the block > inlet > > > side. Cut out the base of the coke bottle to make it like a funnel > and > > > fit the heater return line into the top of the funnel section. You > may > > > have to make an extension hose up to carry these tests out. Half > fill > > > the funnel with water, then holding the bottle up, remove any air > from > > > the radiator cap. There should be sufficient water in the funnel so > the > > > coolant level remains relatively stable with the engine running. Top > > > the coolant level in the funnel up with additional water to maintain > > > the coolant level in the funnel at a constant level. > > > > > > Bring the engine to a constant operating temperature. To test water > > > pump pressure raise the coolant delivery hose into the funnel so the > coolant > > > from the heater return line falls in an arc into the top of the > funnel. > > > At approximately 800 rpm idle, the hose should be able to be raised > 450 > > > -600 mm before coolant flow stops. This indicates a coolant pressure > of > > > approximately 1 psi. If the flow level falls below 300mm before flow > > > stops, the pump is not providing sufficient pressure for the system > and > > > the pump must be replaced. > > > > > > Next look for pump cavitation by running the engine at 2000 rpm and > > > looking at the changes that happen to the coolant. If it goes opaque > or > > > cloudy like the head on a freshly poured beer, you have some > > > cavitation. If the cavitation is bad, large bubbles will appear in > > > the funnel rather > > > like the aerator bubbles in a fish tank. > > > > > > If you have either symptom you should look at the water pump type > you > > > are using and the pump drive speed. Often by slowing the pump or > > > removing some pump blades or cutting them back, these symptoms will > > > dissapear. > > > > > > Cheers > > > Feral Errol > > > www.datrats.com.au > > > > > > Basically the thermostat opens at 82 degrees, but my car will warm > up > > > to > > > 90 and stay there whilst driving but sit at the lights for a little > bit > > > and it gets up near 100 with the thermofan on. > > > Even when cruising at 80 kmph it won't run any cooler than 90. It is > > > an Alloy two row radiator with similar dimensions to the std > 1600 > > > one, and it runs a recovery style cap with a recovery tank.. The > > > recovery tank never has hot water in it. There is never enough > > > pressure to let water into the recovery tank even though the temp is > so > > > high.. It has me very confused. > > > Also another strange thing is that the level of water in the > radiator > > > always seems to drop to the same level (around the height of the top > > > outlet) whenever you let the car cool down. You can fill it up to > the > > > top when its cold but then once you drive it and then take the cap > off > > > again the next day it is low again! > > > The oil is still oily and the water is still watery so I don't think > > > it's a head gasket.. Any other ideas or suggestions?? > > > I have been told to try a bigger thermo but if it wont even cool > down > > > to > > > near 82ish when I'm cruising at 80 then how will a bigger thermo > help?? > > > Cheers, > > > Mark. > > > Ps I have tried two different temp gauges they both told the same > > > story.. > > > > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.8 - Release Date: 14/02/2005 > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.0.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.0.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > --- > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.857 / Virus Database: 584 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- > OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- > Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send > submissions to [email protected] No unauthorised > redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm > http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html > http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ > --------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.1.0 - Release Date: 18/02/2005 > > > > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.3.0 - Release Date: 21/02/2005 > > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 266.3.0 - Release Date: 21/02/2005 > -- No virus found in this incoming message. 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