|
Also..... :)
My
pick of 'em would be in this order:
1.
Disco Potato
2. T28
Ballbearing
3. T28
plain bearing
4.
T25g from SR20 ("g" is high-flowed from the factory)
5. T25
from CA18 (The "g" makes a HUGE difference, I have compared them on 2 identical
spec cars, and the "g" kicks in a lot harder and makes gobs more power than the
plain T25)
6. T2
from ET pulsar, That was a joke... seriously don't bother with this one..
Hehhe.
Hooking it up, if you can afford to, lash out on steel braided oil line
for the top hose, using BSP fittings. They are 1000x times easier to work with
than bundy tube, they use bundy tube in factory setups and it is a bastard to do
up and undo, particularly when it's a few years old and been super hot a number
of times, and starting to rust and turn manky. Talk to a hydraulic hose mob
(like pirtek$$) about the right length and sizes of steel braid before you do it
tho, coz it costs something like $50 a foot for this stuff and you don't want a
hose that's too short.
Well
worth doing tho! Spend the money once and you will have no problems with
this stuff, I can't stress it enough.
If you
want some really good reading material before you start, I really highly
recommend 2 books;
1.
Forced Induction Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell. Around
$60
2.
Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. About $80 last time I looked.
It's
$140 now, but I guarantee that these 2 books will save you thousands of $ over
the years if you continue to play with various turbos & stuff. A bloody good
investment no matter which way you look at it, even if you just buy the first
book, you will learn SO much!
These
books completely opened up my eyes to the world of turbos, and setting up
everything around it to get the most out of the turbo.
Going
fast is 70% theory, 20% hard work, 9% driving skill and 1% money. Some people
opt for the 71% money & no knowledge route, I say just go read the damn
books!!
In
your instance, you NEED these books mate, making a Naturally Aspirated engine -
turbo is not an easy thing to do right.
It
really depends on how much power you want to make & how much lag you will
accept.
A
T25 will give good response, but will be limited in power output and you won't
want to go over 10psi with no intercooler or 15psi with intercooler.
T28
will be a smidge laggier, but if you get a ballbearing one then that will
offset the lagginess and give you good response like a T25 without the flow
restrictions.
The
exhaust side A/R in real basic terms is this: The bigger the number the
laggier it'll be, but with the benefit of more overall flow.
.48
is small and will choke it'self up in the high RPM range.
.64
is a nice middle size for 1.8 to 2lt engines.
.8
is getting on the big side of things. Probably not necessary unless you start
putting on big compressor housings and stuff.
There are some real nice turbos and options in the T2x range, so you
don't need to really go changing to T3 flange unless you have to.
What
i've found is that if you can switch up to T3 series of turbos
(change the flange on your manifold), there are some really nice options
available such as T3/4 hybrids that are dirt cheap and produce some sickening
amounts of power, not necessarily laggy either.
I
bought a T3/4 for my SR20det and it is running on 18psi, making some really
scary horsepower. On stock boost it made 215hp @ the wheels while I was
running the engine in. It's now run in and 18psi is just a whole new dimension
that I haven't experienced previously. It's fast, and will bag up the tyres in
4th gear @ 140ish km/h. I haven't dyno'd it at this boost level yet. For the
record, the exhaust side is .48 T3 housing which *I Think* equals something
larger in the T2x series like .6 to .8 ish. I might be wrong about that part
tho.
A
turbo'd L 18-20 engine with similar turbo configuration could do the same
sorts of things. The T2x series of turbos are quite sufficient though in most
setups, so don't take me too literally. I just went to T3 coz I had one
sitting around, and then found a bigger & badder one very cheap when the
small one blew up. If you can, grab yourself a disco-potato GT25RS and you
will be set. These are apparantly the ducks guts of ballbearing T2x turbos.
I
LOVE turbos. Cheap thrills to be had!!!
Hi all,
I have in my sweaty palms a L18 EFI factory
inlet manifold, A turbo exhaust manifold (modified diesel log-type manifold
from a Navara Z-20 or something) a Microtech D5 Turbo EFI computer and I
want to find a suitable Turbocharger to suit an L18 or L20B motor. It's for
my 1972 Datsun 1600 and I don't want to do the usual CA18DET, FJ20DET or
SR20DET swap. I need a turbo with a T25 / T28 flange to suit my exhaust
manifold. My guess is a CA18DET or SR20DET type turbo would be the best
choice. I know bugger all about turbos, so I need advice on the specs
for A/R compressor and exhaust housings. I notice there is a
range of T25 and T28 turbos available between .48 and .64 A/R. Does
anyone know which A/R I need for L20B and/or L18?
Any advice at all would be
appreciated,
Cheers,
Rob --membersozdat-------------------------------------------------------
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