Title: Message
Also..... :)
 
My pick of 'em would be in this order:
1. Disco Potato
2. T28 Ballbearing
3. T28 plain bearing
4. T25g from SR20 ("g" is high-flowed from the factory)
5. T25 from CA18 (The "g" makes a HUGE difference, I have compared them on 2 identical spec cars, and the "g" kicks in a lot harder and makes gobs more power than the plain T25)
6. T2 from ET pulsar, That was a joke... seriously don't bother with this one.. Hehhe.
 
Hooking it up, if you can afford to, lash out on steel braided oil line for the top hose, using BSP fittings. They are 1000x times easier to work with than bundy tube, they use bundy tube in factory setups and it is a bastard to do up and undo, particularly when it's a few years old and been super hot a number of times, and starting to rust and turn manky. Talk to a hydraulic hose mob (like pirtek$$) about the right length and sizes of steel braid before you do it tho, coz it costs something like $50 a foot for this stuff and you don't want a hose that's too short.
Well worth doing tho! Spend the money once and you will have no problems with this stuff, I can't stress it enough.
 
 
If you want some really good reading material before you start, I really highly recommend 2 books;
1. Forced Induction Performance Tuning by A. Graham Bell. Around $60
2. Maximum Boost by Corky Bell. About $80 last time I looked.
 
It's $140 now, but I guarantee that these 2 books will save you thousands of $ over the years if you continue to play with various turbos & stuff. A bloody good investment no matter which way you look at it, even if you just buy the first book, you will learn SO much!
These books completely opened up my eyes to the world of turbos, and setting up everything around it to get the most out of the turbo.
Going fast is 70% theory, 20% hard work, 9% driving skill and 1% money. Some people opt for the 71% money & no knowledge route, I say just go read the damn books!!
 
In your instance, you NEED these books mate, making a Naturally Aspirated engine - turbo is not an easy thing to do right.
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Geordie [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, 16 September 2005 6:07 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: RE: L18 EFI turbo in a 510
Importance: High

It really depends on how much power you want to make & how much lag you will accept.
 
A T25 will give good response, but will be limited in power output and you won't want to go over 10psi with no intercooler or 15psi with intercooler.
 
T28 will be a smidge laggier, but if you get a ballbearing one then that will offset the lagginess and give you good response like a T25 without the flow restrictions.
 
The exhaust side A/R in real basic terms is this: The bigger the number the laggier it'll be, but with the benefit of more overall flow.
.48 is small and will choke it'self up in the high RPM range.
.64 is a nice middle size for 1.8 to 2lt engines.
.8 is getting on the big side of things. Probably not necessary unless you start putting on big compressor housings and stuff.
 
There are some real nice turbos and options in the T2x range, so you don't need to really go changing to T3 flange unless you have to.
What i've found is that if you can switch up to T3 series of turbos (change the flange on your manifold), there are some really nice options available such as T3/4 hybrids that are dirt cheap and produce some sickening amounts of power, not necessarily laggy either.
 
I bought a T3/4 for my SR20det and it is running on 18psi, making some really scary horsepower. On stock boost it made 215hp @ the wheels while I was running the engine in. It's now run in and 18psi is just a whole new dimension that I haven't experienced previously. It's fast, and will bag up the tyres in 4th gear @ 140ish km/h. I haven't dyno'd it at this boost level yet. For the record, the exhaust side is .48 T3 housing which *I Think* equals something larger in the T2x series like .6 to .8 ish. I might be wrong about that part tho.
 
A turbo'd L 18-20 engine with similar turbo configuration could do the same sorts of things. The T2x series of turbos are quite sufficient though in most setups, so don't take me too literally. I just went to T3 coz I had one sitting around, and then found a bigger & badder one very cheap when the small one blew up. If you can, grab yourself a disco-potato GT25RS and you will be set. These are apparantly the ducks guts of ballbearing T2x turbos.
 
I LOVE turbos. Cheap thrills to be had!!!
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Rob P [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, 16 September 2005 4:31 PM
To: [email protected]
Subject: L18 EFI turbo in a 510

Hi all,
I have in my sweaty palms a L18 EFI factory inlet manifold, A turbo exhaust manifold (modified diesel log-type manifold from a Navara Z-20 or something) a Microtech D5 Turbo EFI computer and I want to find a suitable Turbocharger to suit an L18 or L20B motor. It's for my 1972 Datsun 1600 and I don't want to do the usual CA18DET, FJ20DET or SR20DET swap. I need a turbo with a T25 / T28 flange to suit my exhaust manifold. My guess is a CA18DET or SR20DET type turbo would be the best choice. I know bugger all about turbos, so I need advice on the specs for A/R  compressor and exhaust housings. I notice there is a range of T25 and T28 turbos available between .48 and .64 A/R. Does anyone know which A/R I need for L20B and/or L18?
 
Any advice at all would be appreciated,
 
Cheers,
Rob

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