Terry,
Thanks for the writeup but nfortunately a bit too late :)
Mind you I used Chris' method and got the bearings out no problems and
with no damage to the arm. The amount of "bashing" required was quite
minimal. I cleaned up the holes and added a bit of WD40 and it came out
pretty easily. I was expecting more of a fight!
My axles came out with a a hammer and a block of wood on the end of the
axle. No damage there. Maybe the Datto Gods were looking after me. (Or I
learnt from the last axle I stuffed) :)
Iggy
Terry Rudd wrote:
Hi Iggy,
I've done a lot of these in my time and never found a real easy one to get
off yet, and I'm not talkin' about the jc nut. I strongly recommend that you
don't bash anything as the chances of stuffing your axles into something
pear shaped are much better than even. Use a slide hammer, this is how
Nissan dealers and rally teams did it back in the olden days and it works
99/100 - for the odd one that wont let go, apply a little heat around the
hub near the outer bearing, then use the slide hammer again but watch that
there's nothing or no one behind you as these ones tend to let go real quick
- I redesigned a section in the side of a garage beyond all recognition with
one of these one day many moons ago - you learn from it.
Terry's DIY Datto axle removal slider consists of a piece if 2" angle iron,
holes drilled on one side to attach to 2 wheels studs opposite each other
i.e. across the centre of the axle flange. A piece of decent round solid
steel rod about 1.5 feet long welded to the other side of the angle iron
that's not been drilled. There's a bit of engineering skills required with
this bit - the holes in the angle iron are drilled so it sits across two
wheel studs that are opposite each other, and the rod is welded onto the
angle iron as close to dead centre of the axle as possible. Now for the
hammer, you need a piece of 1.5 to 2" (50mm) box steel or something with a
bit of weight & strength to it about 12" to 15 " long - you drill a hole
thru the centre of box section so it fits nice and snug over the rod
(slider), then you weld a decent nut (I usually use a wheel nut and never
had one let go yet) on the open end of the slider rod. Bolt her on to the
Datto flange using the wheels nuts and whammo, it usually takes 2 or 3 hits.
If you were here in Canberra I could give you a demo.
BTW, The dimensions here are estimates i.e. I haven't measured mine exactly,
but they're fairly close to what you need.
Regards,
Terry.
-----Original Message-----
From: [email protected]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ignacio Sandejas
Sent: Tuesday, 30 May 2006 10:08 AM
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Rear Axle Bearings
The arm is off the car ATM. So you find you don't need a press for the
outer bearing? I'll be giving it a bash tonight(literally). We'll see
how we go!
Chris King wrote:
I found the easiest way is to grind off the bit of the nut that is
folded in, otherwise it can damage the end of the thread on the axle.
Then hammer the axle (with nut 3/4 on end of the axle, so not to damage
thread) all the way through. Then use chisel or similar to get the
bearings out, tapping opposite sides so bearing comes out straight.
Done it a few times and seems to work. Are you doing it on or off the
car? Bearing in same way but be REALLY careful not to slip and punch a
hole through seal.
Chris King
----- Original Message ----- From: "Ignacio Sandejas"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>; <[email protected]>
Sent: Monday, May 29, 2006 3:15 PM
Subject: Rear Axle Bearings
Hey all,
I'm in the process of removing and replacing my rear axle bearings. I
have gotten the lock nut off:) are there any hints and tips to
removing the bearings? My workshop manual says to use a "suitable
drift" to get the inside bearing off. Is that what you guys have done?
Thanks,
Iggy Sandejas
Web Developer
D-Frag Solutions
http://www.dfrag.com.au
-----------------------
--
-----------------------
Iggy Sandejas
Web Developer
0419 485 252
D-Frag Solutions
http://www.dfrag.com.au
-----------------------
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