So are you supposed to beat the joint out and press them back in? I
thought you used the press to press them out?
Dieselhead wrote:
Partial success so far. I have one out. I sprayed it with
penetrating oil and beat on it with a 2 lb blacksmith cross-pein
hammer. After a lot of beating, the cap popped off and the ball went
out the bottom. I thought i was going to have trouble at that point.
But a few more whacks and it moved.
I just came in to check that my memory was right and the notch goes
in. Found the email from Peter (thanks) so I am off to press in the
first one. I have the rental press form O'reilley's and a new one
from HF that was on sale and I used the 20% off coupon, so it was $32.
Thanks everyone for the info!
You will need an adapter to push the old one out, otherwise the HF
kit works fine. Make sure you have a 7mm (yes, 7mm) allen key to
hold the strut rod while unscrewing the nut. This is NOT in the
normal assortments, although my cheap set has one for some reason.
Do not use heat, you run the risk of changing the shape or temper of
the control arm, and neither distortion nor cracks around the ball
joint are desirable. The HF tool will provide adequate pressure,
although some vigorous tapping on the control arm to "start" it out
is sometimes necessary.
You can buy the supplementary adapter kit that will have the correct
sleeve to push the old one out, too, which is probably the way to go.
They are directional -- the new one must go in with the notch
pointing toward the centerline of the car. Take a peek at the base
of the old one before you take it out.
Not a bad job. Make sure you have the control arm supported by a
jack stand before you take the strut out, put new jounce bumper and
boot on it if they are worn, and check the condition of the upper
mount, this is a good time to swap it out.
If you go the route of a new control arm, you MUST install the
eccentric bolts into the exact same spot and then MUST have a
complete front end alignment, there no way it's gonna be more than
sorta close to correct.
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Frederick W Moir <fred.s...@verizon.net>
Sent: Mar 27, 2010 10:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 ball joints.
Hi, DH.
I've replaced both on a 201 with the HF kit plus a plumbing end cap
that
just happened to have the right chamfer inside.
I have a photo of the setup if you would like it?
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
85 300TD
87 190DT Bent
87 190DT Blue
Diesel preferred.
On 3/27/2010 7:51 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
Jim, Thanks. That is helpful. But I see you used the flame
wrench to
get the ball joint loose. I don't have a flame wrench available. I'd
sure use it if I had it! Not having the torch, I am reluctant to try
this myself.
So has anyone changed the 124 (or 201)ball joints without the torch
and without the official MB tools?
(and without the spring compresser)
Can this [124] be done with the HF ball joint kit, or are
there modifications that require a flame wrench?
I think it's pretty much the same as the 201. See:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/mb190d.html#30Aug2008
The base HF kit works, but you need some pipe scraps too.
I did a bit of welding on the pipe scraps, but hose clamps
might work just as well.
-- Jim
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