Order the whole rear link kit from Rusty, it always goes on sale
right after I buy 124 links from him at regular price. (it is on
sale now because I just re-did the 300D rear suspension) Also order
the subframe mounts. Rusty knows what you need. Just call him.
There are 2 front and 2 rear subframe bushings (for the rear
subframe) on the 124. If you car is not too rusty, you probably
don't need new bolts. If your car is rusty, you may want to order
the new bolts or the kit with the bolts for the bushings. The
official "please don't sue me" practice is to replace the bolts.
I've been happy with the old bolts on my non-rusty car.
If you reuse the bolts, you might want to have some loctite on hand.
But I have never had a problem with bolts coming lose. For triumph
and other shaker motorsickles you can't live without locktite. On my
MBs and BMW motorsickles, I don't remember ever using locktite. The
124 suspension parts have self-locking nuts or blue loctite on them
from the factory, but I think that is a "don't sue me " CYA.
For the rear links, be sure what you order has the new bolts and
bushings. The parts you will get are 210 parts and use smaller
bolts, and some you will need bushings for to compensate for the
smaller bolt.
I did have the big bolt break once on a 126, so for a 123 or 126,
ordering the new bolts is a good idea. Those are single bushings
Hi Gang -
Have been following this thread as I'd like to restore my rear
suspension one day. It doesn't seem bad - I don't notice any
specific problems but with nearly 180K Mi on it, it's just a matter
of time.
Looking at Rustys site I found these parts:
W0133-1614000 Subframe Bushing Kit
W0133-1629778 Subframe Mounting Kit
W0133-1624039 Subframe Mount
The only things Rustys site is lacking IMHO is a "Wish List" and a
"number Req'd column".
Can some one tell me how many of the above parts I will need. What
else might I need (other than shocks)? I've never done much
suspension work except to the front of the 78 240D but I have lots
of tools and am patient - what "Special Tools" will I need?
Thx!
LarryT
91 300D
OilAnalysis Time?
Looking for Weber Parts or Porsche Posters?
www.youroil.net
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Peter Frederick" <psf...@earthlink.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2010 8:56 AM
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement
I have found that you must put the torque link in before the thrust
link (or if only replacing the torque link, remove the thrust link)
because you need to rotate the wheel carrier a bit to get the bolt
and sleeve in.
I don't know when the new style links came out, but I suspect in 90
they were still the old style with a larger bolt. New link are 210
part numbers, and you need a bolt kit with sleeve to fit the new
smaller bolt to the old style wheel carrier as the bolts are
smaller diameter.
Check the tie rods and tie rod eccentric bolt bushing (that's the
only part that usually wears, but the tie rod end can go bad too)
and replace these at the same time. Requires a full four wheel
alignment if you do.
I plan to replace the spring link bushings at the same time, rather
pointless to replace all the links and have excessive noise and
tire wear from the camber being "loose" even with new links.
Might stick new spring pads in as well, after all, they are 20
years old with how many miles on them?
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
Sent: Apr 2, 2010 10:52 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 124 rear axel link replacement
The bugaboo is the the outer joint for the lower control arm in the
wheel carrier. It takes a special tool (press) of course. I took
them off and took them to a good tire shop. they pressed out the old
and in the new. I think the sequence you suggest is right. I see
Rusty has the links on sale again this month. He always does that a
couple weeks after I do the job. It is a very good price!
This weekend looks good for finally replacing the worn, sloppy
rear links in
the '90 300D. Is there a perferred sequence for replacing them, or just
follow the sequence in the manual (camber, torque, tie rod, thrust)?
The instructions say "press tensioning sleeve out of wheel
carrier" for each
of the links - is a BFH the usual tool for this job? Is there a trick to
pressing them back in?
TIA -- OK Don
Panic! (the national past time).
_______________________________________
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
