You don't have to Jack the car, except for disconnecting the exhaust,
and don't need a lift or hoist.
You will need the special long 12mm XZN socket, a head gasket set, a
turbo oil feed gasket, injector beat shields, manifold stud nuts, a
timing chain tensioner gasket and a timing rail pin puller. (I used a
socket and some bolts...
Disconnect battery(remove ground cable).
Remove air cleaner. (cap turbo inlet; I have found that some aerosol
can caps, ie pb, carb cleaner, etc may fit nicely).
Thoroughly clean and degrease engine compartment.
Disconnect exhaust @TC.
Drain radiator/coolant.
Drain the engine oil.
Disconnect and remove injection lines (cap off the delivery valves and
the injectors if possible).
Disconnect the alda line @ the back of the intake manifold.
Disconnect/remove upper radiator hose.
Loosen clamps on short hose between water pump and head.
Disconnect all lines going to the fuel filter and remove it.
Disconnect all electrical and vacuum lines from the intake manifold,
exhaust manifold and head (move the harnesses away)
Disconnect and remove the turbo supply line.
Disconnect egr line at valve.
Remove manifold stud nuts and washers.
Slide manifolds to the side (off the studs).
Remove valve cover.
Set engine to TDC#1 (confirm by examining valve positions)
Mark the timing chain and the cam gear.
Remove the timing rail pin(s) that go into the head.
Remove the timing chain tensioner.
Remove the cam timing gear and work chain past shaft.
Remove all head bolts (don't forget the ones outside the head, there
is one on the arm that holds the fuel filter)
Lay a 2x6 across the fenders.
Use chain (or even 3/8" rope) to lash the head to the 2x6 using the
factory supplied lift eyes.
Triple check that everything is clear (vacuum lines, etc)
Have a buddy help lift the head slowly (you take one end then he the
other).
Verify that nothing is still attached/will snag on/interfere with head
removal as you move through the first 2-3"
Swap equipment to other head as needed.
Assemble as reverse, observing torque specifications and sequences.
Use the cam timing gear from your old head and observe your markings.
I have the XZN tool that I can loan to you if you still work near the
east side of Lafayette square in DC...
As to the head... If it was removed from a good engine then you
probably don't need to mess with it... I guess you could have it
magnafluxed or xrayed for cracks...
Visual inspection of the valves, seats, cam and rocker surfaces are
probably all that's needed.
You could have the whole thing rebuilt if you want, but the bottom end
will still be the old one...
As for opportunistic repairs...
Replace turbo drain seals.
Timing chain/tensioner/rails (do this AFTER you have it back together
and the cam timing gear set! You do not want the cam timing to get
mucked with since diesels are interfereance (sp?) engines!)
I do not remember what you need to go through with respect to the ac
line or if any other things like oil cooler lines, are involved...
I haven't done an estate so I can't provide any help with the sls
stuff...
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On May 20, 2010, at 11:55, andrew strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
wrote:
I've decided that my 1985 pseudo 300TD (with the replacement 1985 300D
engine and "converted" (i.e., bowdlerized) self levelling system
merits
conversion into a real 300TD. I found a 300TD cylinder head
(including the
SLS pump) at a good price, and my neighbor who does all sorts of
heavy duty
work on his 280SE 3.35 coupe is willing to work with me to R/R the
head. If
that operation is successful, I can replace the bogus Bilstein rear
shocks
with good used hydropneumatic struts, fill the SLS canister with
proper
fluid and then hope that the SLS actually works.
So I have several questions.
1. How should I test the cylinder head to ensure it's still good?
If I
take it to a machine shop what will they charge me and what can they
determine?
2. Assuming the head is OK, what sort of complications can arise
when I
remove the old head? What is a worst case scenario?
3. Do I need a lift to do this job, or will jack stands suffice?
4. What among the following should I install or replace once the
engine is
disassembled: valves, valve seals, gaskets, shims, etc. The
engine is
currently running perfectly well and has 250 K miles approximately.
Or, if anyone has a good used 1985 300TD engne I am definitely
interested.
As usual, TIA.
Andrew
1983 300TD
1985 300TD pretend-o-wagon
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_______________________________________
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
