Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
I'm trying to replace the front wheel bearing on my 71 280SL and I'm
having a hard time driving out the smaller race (the one closer to the
lock nut). I tried with a brass punch but the harder metal of the race
chewed it up. I then tried a pin punch for driving out brake pad
retaining pins but it just slips as the edge profile of the race is not
enough to get a good grip. Any other tips? Does putting the hub in the
freezer help?
Not the voice of experience here, but I'd be tempted to hit the housing
with a torch, and then hit the race with liquid CO2 or propane, see if it
falls out.
Mitch
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Never did an SL, but on other cars I ground a slightly angled flat on the
end of a long drift punch and used the sharper edge of the punch to gently
tap the outer race all the way around; tapping the opposite sides
alternately. If I was installing a new bearing, I tapped much harder with a
bigger hammer. Never failed to get one out that way, but there is always a
first time of course. If the bearing had run hot, I soaked it with WD-40
and Rust Eater (from Autozone) for several hours, and then with light
machine oil for an hour or so. If the bearing was stuck hard, I sometimes
had to grind the end of the punch several times.
Good luck,
Gerry
'83 300D and 240D
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