Y'all may remember that a couple of weeks ago I was posting about my
Euro 500SEL with the 6.9-style four-wheel hydro suspension, which was
first pressurizing (lifting the car) at one end but not the other,
then (after sitting overnight) seemed to be pressurizing properly, but
still didn't respond correctly to manual manipulation of the level
control valves (which ought to cause the appropriate end of the car to
rise or fall quickly).

Well, I had another high-pressure leak, this one at one of the
brake-fitting-type connections to the pressure regulator on top of the
hydraulic fluid reservoir.  It was just a little loose, but enough to
make the front end drop to the ground.

Since the system was already depressurized, I decided to follow a
suggestion I read on the MBCA forums.  Someone mentioned there that
there's a metering system and filter built into the regulator,
accessible by loosening what appears to be a large bolt on the rear of
the regulator, which can sometimes cause trouble.  I undid that bolt
head and found an interesting mechanism: a long bolt with an o-ring
halfway down it, an orifice in the form of a hole drilled crossways
through the bolt, and a weird gold-colored object, which I guess is a
kind of filter.  It looks sort of like fine bronze wool compressed
tightly into a conical shape; it's hard, but looks spongy and porous
under a magnifying glass.  It didn't seem dirty, but I soaked it in
brake cleaner anyway while I cleaned out the orifice in the special
bolt (dirty but not completely obstructed) and replaced the O-ring
(hard and brittle).

When I put everything back together and started the car, the front end
didn't rise at all, but the rear end immediately rose to maximum
height and stayed there.   When I pressed down on the trunk, it
wouldn't budge, as if the struts were stuck in maximum-pressure mode
and the spheres weren't working.

Baffled, I carefully reread the parts of the FSM dealing with the
hydraulic system, and found a very brief and very vague mention that
the leveling valves may under certain circumstances achieve maximum
pressure and fail to release. The fix is to empty the system of fluid
at the end of the car that's too high, make sure the level control
valve is hooked up to the sway bar properly, and then start the car
again and let the system repressurize correctly.

That worked to bring the rear end down, but the front of the car was
still too low.  I took it out for a short, slow test drive, gingerly
avoiding potholes and high spots in the road so as not to scrape the
front end.  It rode smoothly, as it's supposed to, and after about ten
minutes the body leveled out.  I stopped and checked the hydraulic
fluid level---it was right in the middle between the high and low
marks.  But the car, though at the same height front and back, won't
rise to normal ride height overall.  It's too low all the way around,
by about three inches; the suspension warning light is on; and
manipulating the level control valves doesn't raise either end.

Attached are some crummy cell-phone pictures of the metering bolt and
the weird bronze filter thingy (as well as my shop helper, who finds
the intake system of a warm M117 engine to be a perfect place to sit
and meditate).  I cannot find any reference to this mechanism in the
126 CD-ROM FSM, the 116 FSM, or the factory supplement for 1980 that
covers the differences between the 6.9 and lesser 116s. I wonder if
these parts are present in some form in the rear-only SLS systems,
and, if so, might explain some mystery problems that people have had
with their wagons?

The big question at this point is, why doesn't the car pump up the
struts to the correct pressure to reach normal ride height?  I plan to
test the hydraulic pump pressure next, but there seems to be
conflicting information online as to whether a failing pump can
actually even be a cause of low ride height.  The Star Motors
troubleshooting guide at
http://www.starmotorsny.com/pdf/HydroSuspGuide.pdf refers to the fluid
tank as a "pressure reservoir" and gives "lack of sufficient pressure
in reservoir" as the first thing to check if the car is low all the
way around and the warning light is on (but doesn't even mention the
pump as a possible cause of those symptoms!).

I find it hard to believe that the hydraulic fluid tank is really a
pressure reservoir in the same sense as, say, the coolant overflow
tank.  For one thing, if I open the filler/dipstick cover on top while
the car's running, there's no sense of pressure being relieved (like
there is with the cooling system); for another, the dipstick cover
itself is not designed to seal tightly (it doesn't screw in, just a
press fit).  (But if it really is subject to pressure, I need to take
it out and check it for leaks, I guess.)

There also seems to be some disagreement as to whether the system
constantly recirculates fluid---in which case the health of the pump
would be extremely important---or whether the pump is only used when
the load at the front or rear of the car changes significantly, to add
fluid to that end if necessary, and the rest of the time each set of
struts and spheres becomes a closed system---in which case the
pressure of which the pump is capable would be less important (it
would just mean the car would respond slower to changes in cargo
load).

Any suggestions appreciated!

Alex
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