I am not disagreeing with that. The mopar stuff eats rust. there is
a difference. Different tools for different problems.
With the dogde struts, I could turn the nut, but the rust on the 1"
or so of bolt sticking through the nut made it so tough that the bolt
would break before the nut came off. Yes, I could have worked the
nut in and out repeatedly to get through the rust with or without
penetrating oil. The acetone/atf would help, but not take off the
rust.
The Mopar stuff: I sprayed it on, waited maybe 20-30 minutes and was
able to back the nut off.
If the nut is rust welded to the bolt, then the ATF/acetone is the tool.
Acetone mixed with atf is the best penetrant.
Mike
On Nov 23, 2011 10:31 AM, "Gerry Archer" <arche...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
Autozone has "Rust Eater" which probably isn't as good as Mopar
but it does dissolve rust. Used it and a half dozen other products
on a tapered part that was stuck tight. None unstuck it by normal
means but a 20 lb sledge finally did.
Gerry
From: "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
from your friendly local Dogde stealership parts counter. Ask for Mopar
P/N 04318039AB, That is the old number, but they should be able to look up
the new one. There is a photo of it here:
http://www.mopar.ca/en/**accessories/**inspectandreplaceexhaustsystem**
components.php<http://www.mopar.ca/en/accessories/inspectandreplaceexhaustsystemcomponents.php>
There is also a picture of the old can on page 24 here:
http://starparts.chrysler.com/**starlibrary/marketing/**
chemicals/chemicals.pdf<http://starparts.chrysler.com/starlibrary/marketing/chemicals/chemicals.pdf>
Tell me more about this stuff. Where do you get it?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 23, 2011, at 9:23 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
Use the mopar rust eater/penetrating oil with graphite.
I just did the struts on a 12 yr old dodge and the bolts were rusted
tight, with way more thread through the nut than necessary. The
rust eater
ate the rust and I was able to get everything apart. going back together,
most of the fits were like original so I could run the nuts on by hand.
It was reformulated, but seems to still work well.
Sure does. My 83 has yet to see an Upstate winter. I really hate to
even
drive it this winter but I currently have no choice. The brine they are
putting on the roads around here is terrible. I live right by Watkins
Glen, NY, home to Cargill, makers of the brine, so they test formulas on
local roads. I have noticed a serious uprise in the amount of rust on
cars
since they started with the stuff a few years ago. Newer cars, with
cheap
recycled parts are terrible to work on after just a couple of winters.
The
bodies don't rot so bad thanks to modern corrosion inhibitors but the
fasteners are frozen to the point of breaking or stripping the heads.
Mike
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