To do the rear subframe, I found it easiest to have a tranny jack to hold
the differential.  It doesn't take long to remove the entire subframe.  You
need to disconnect the emergency brake cables, differential ABS sensor, and
driveshaft.  Then slide the subframe out from under the car with the axles
and differential still mounted.

The single most important thing to remember when installing new bushings of
any sort is that the bolts should NOT be tightened until they are bearing
the weight of the car.

>From a tool standpoint, keep in mind that the links generally used
different bolt kits than the newer ones.  Whereas the older ones were
usually 17 or 19mm, the newer ones will include 16 or 18 mm, and XZN.




On Wed, Feb 1, 2012 at 12:33 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> If the top (camber link is ok, then it is either the inner bushings on the
> LCA (best to buy a new LCA) or the outer bushing that resides in the wheel
> carrier.  Most likely it is a culmination of the creep/wear in the camber
> link and both ends of the LCA.
>
> Subframe bushings are easier on the 124.  I did a write up to the list in
> maybe april of 2010 if you check the archives.  You need a floor jack and
> jackstands.  No lift.  It would be harder/more dangerous on a lift to me.
>
>  On Feb 1, 2012 7:39 AM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>  excessive negative camber in the rear
>>>>  of a 124
>>>>
>>>
>>   Camber link, LCA and subframe
>>>  bushings
>>>
>>>
>> All links were replaced about 20K miles ago.   I wonder if they've failed
>> prematurely?   Subframe bushings doesn't sound like a fun job without a
>> lift.
>>
>> Alex
>>
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>
>
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