Jim -
Did the machine shop resurface the head? Some times the shops just run a
sanding block over it. Also, when you torqued down the head did you follow
an established torque pattern and use that pattern to torque the head down
in 3 or 4 successive levels of tightness. If you didn't torque it down using
this method, I would drain the water, pull out the plugs, loosen the nuts,
again in the approved pattern and in a few steps, then re-torque the nuts
properly. That may get it done. If it still leaks, you might try popping the
head off, cleaning off any residual gasket material, and putting the head
back on the block dry with no fasteners. Now see if you can stick feeler
gauges between the block deck and head as a means to check for warping. If
you detect warping, even with the studs in place, you should be able to get
a pretty good feel for how straight the deck of the block is with a good
precision straight edge. The head could easily be checked as well using the
same straight edge. I have worked on engines before with studs in the block.
It's kinda a pain. One of the things that took me a lot of time on those was
to clean the crud from around the base of each stud. If you missed some
material there, it might be possible that it is interfering with the fit,
not allowing the head to seat properly.


-----Original Message-----
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2006 3:22 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Genset

> Warpage? You did put a surface plate on it while it was apart,
> didn't you?

I did nothing.  The head went to the shop and came back 'done'.
The block was sleeved by them, and honed, but that was it.  The
forest of studs poking out of the block were not removed, so
obviously no flatness test was done.

-- Jim

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