Each spring has the part number stamped on the spring, at one end or the other. 
  The springs would need to be removed from the car to read the part number.  
You may need a wire brush to remove dirt, rust, etc to be able to read the 
number.

I like Peter's idea about air in the system.  Loosen the hydraulic connection 
at the top of each strut to purge the air.  This method is the best way to 
remove air, that connection is pretty much the high point in the system, and 
also where the valve in the strut is supposed to provide the damping action.  
If that valve is air-bound, no damping, which seems to be what you're 
describing.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston, SC


-------- Original Message --------
From: Andrew Strasfogel <astrasfo...@gmail.com>
Sent: April 13, 2014 8:37:36 AM EDT
To: Mercedes Discussion List <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
Subject: [MBZ] Swapping rear springs - what 's the diff?

My 1985 300TD may have incorrect (sedan/coupe) rear springs due to a
previous owner wanting to disconnect the SLS.  This could have been part of
the conversion to conventional suspension, using Bilstein rear shocks.
After purchasing the vehicle, I swapped out the rear shocks for rear
struts, installed new accumulators (air cells), and reconnected the SLS.

Now I am wondering why the rear is quite bouncy, so bad enough that I can't
pass MD inspection the way it is.  I have no paperwork for the original
suspension conversion.  Ideas on where to go from here?
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