Thanks Don.
That was useful info.
RB
On 04/03/2015 4:29 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
I'm not an A&P, but have played one for most of my life. To clarify what
Grant said, the feather trigger lets you modulate the hammering action from
a stroke every second to very fast. You start by setting the rivet in place
with a few slow strokes, then enough fast strokes to get it to the finished
state.
The 2X, 3X, 4X, etc. relates to the length of each stroke, hence the
"power" to mash ever increasing sizes and hardness's of rivets.
IIRC, boats often use larger rivets than I've dealt with in most of my
aircraft work, but they were often softer as well. I doubt that you need
more than a 3X rivet gun.
This is the gun I bought recently, and it works just fine:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivetset737.php?clickkey=1985735
It has everything you need except and air compressor and the rivets (which
you can find here:
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/solidalumrivets2.php).
On Wed, Mar 4, 2015 at 2:46 PM, G Mann via Mercedes <mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:
Airframe and Power plant mechanic so I've driven a few thousand rivets
The rivet gun with a "feather trigger" permits you to drive the rivet
without over driving it..
The "stun gun" body shop hammer used for cutting metal and such lacks the
finer control to drive rivets in aluminum..
I suggest you get some aluminum scraps that are as near the composition to
the boats material as you can get and practice driving rivets .. observe
what works, and what doesn't.. you also may want to moderate the air
pressure to the rivet gun to get the "stroke" you need to upset the rivet
properly..
Also important is the bucking bar you use to back the driver.. how you hold
it.. it's weight and surface all play into the compression of the rivet to
make it fill the hole and grip the pieces being joined..
HTH...
Grant...
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